Need help on Luger S/42. I have no clue! (long)

Well, today as my luck would have it I was approached by a gentleman who wanted me to help him sell his Luger. The bad part is that I do not know much about Lugers or their values. The good part is that this one was in pristine condition as it came out of the box. No holster wear, nothing. It is as good as you ever find one. Here are the details: date stamp 1936, marked s/42, 4 digit serial number, all numbers match including the mag, perfect blue (pristine), perfect straw colors on the trigger and lever, no sanding, buffing, or any other restoration marks, perfect grips, all inspector marks down to the smallest one on the barrel are crisp and clear. It is looks so good that I thought at first that it is someone's sophisticated restoration. Blue on the rotating pins is different shade than the rest of the pistol (i think it's the way they come). My first instinct was to buy it myself but I doubt that I can afford it. If i agree to post it for him how much should I recommend asking (he is not a fool and knows the pistol is worth serious money). What should I inspect the pistol for to see if this is a real masterpiece of a restoration (i doubt). I have not taken it apart but I will this weekend. I appreciate you helpful comments and advice.

The 1936 lugers are fairly common but quite popular. The mag tube should be nickel plated steel and the aluminum bottom of the mag may have any of several inspection stamps but that is determined by the serial number (not the four digits--they are not important; the LETTER code at the end of the serial is important in most cases though not so much with 1936 lugers). The letter code appears on the front of the frame under the four digits. The grips (inside), firing pin, hold open latch and rear toggle pin will have the last two digits of the serial number as do most of the other parts but on the outside (visible parts) of the pistol. The inside of the "tuning fork" receiver of the pistol is not blued and the same for the inside of the mag well etc inside parts. The safety lever, takedown lever, mag release button, ejector, and trigger are straw yellow color. The mag button spring, sear spring, pins, and grip screws are fire blue color. The polishing pattern on these can be inspected but is difficult to describe in text. It is a good way to study the originality of the finish. There are known patterns of metal work on the luger surfaces used to determine fakery.


Six months ago I passed on a full rig (two mags, tool, gun, holster) all original to 1936 and in 93% finish condition for $1600. The highest condition commands the top price, as you might have suspected. A near 100% pistol would be valuable but extremely uncommon and demand some inspection for most collectors. I think if 98% and original in all respects it would be $900 to $1350. Sorry for the wide range of values but patience and widespread advertising and photos, etc., would probably result in a value nearer to $1300. A quick sale with limited effort and cost would probably lead to a lower sale price in the $1000 region.


That is my two cents worth. I am working on completing my luger years and need 1936, 1938, 1939, and 1940 so I have been thinking of these things. Last week, I was fortunate enough to buy a complete 1918 luger rig and could not pass it up. I now am back on the trail of other lugers.


Email me directly if the seller or you would like to discuss his luger further.


Dave

[Thor]

You can bet this is someones masterful restoration (I do them too) . If it has fire blued pins, then it done correctly from that aspect. Safety needs to be painted an off white/tan color. Muzzle should be matt silver (white steel), inside of the receiver should be in the white up to about the "n" suffix on the serial number, grip screws are fire blued too (might look gray by now). A gun this old will have some of the strawing fading. It should be rust blued (a blue/gray color) not salt blued which is a blacker color (that came after and during late 1937). Look for grinding marks on the bottom of the magazine and a flattening of the bottom arc where the serial goes, look for clean numbers (real ones should be dirty/tarnished looking) on the mag bottom. Magazine should have an aluminum bottom with a nickle plated magazine tube/body.Serial on front of frame should be between 5000f to 4500p. Good luck and in Luger collecting if something looks to good, somebody probably made it that way....recently! ~Thor~



Ted's Luger Strawing Service

[Lonnie Zimmerman]

I believe the magazines for 1936 Lugers were blued starting in the M block.


Lonnie

[Thor]

That sounds right Lonnie and that is when the internal polish went away around n block! If the gun doesnt have ANY and mean ANY wear on the sideplate high spot or on the front sides of the rails or sides of the muzzle front, it is suspect. Take it out in the sun and look for oxidation under the bluing. Original bluing should have "some", it will appear like little brown areas that maynot be visible in indoor lighting! Thor

OOPS! Don't know what made me think G date when I knew it was a 1936. Yep, might be blued tube and inside the rails and be original.


dave

[bill m]

Hi Dave,

The magazines on the 1936 S/42 were nickel up until the mid M block and then either blue or nickel tubes are correct. -- The inspection mark should only be a droop eagle 63 on all the 1936 S/42's. The grips can be either numbered with the last two digits or blank -- both are correct. Hope this helps you out some in your pursuit of a correct 1936.

Thanks for the grip information, Bill. I have seen only numbered grips on 1936's and did not know if blanks were original. I have come to estimate most blanks were on 1918 through 1930 lugers but have not inspected the grips on many original pieces from the 1920s through 1935.