Trigger function

Jim53 · 09-04-2011, 11:29 AM

I am new to Lugers and to this forum so forgive me if this question has been covered somewhere else here. I finally got to take my two new (to me) Lugers to the range yesterday. A 1920 DWM commercial in .30 Luger and a 1916 Erfurt 9mm. Both are original with matching numbers. The DWM shot as expected with a crisp and predictable trigger. When I shot the Erfurt for the first time the trigger pull was so heavy I thought perhaps the firing pin hadn't reset. Keeping in mind I have never before fired a Luger. My questions are how do the triggers work on these pistols? Could one or more springs be worn out causing this heavy trigger pull condition or is this a common thing for Lugers? And lastly, if I change the springs would it decrease the value of the pistols? I don't plan to shoot the 1916 very often but would like to enjoy them. Thanks for any help.

Jim

Railsplitter · 09-04-2011, 01:55 PM

To describe the interplay of the trigger, trigger lever and sear bar that takes place when one pulls the trigger on a luger would get rather wordy (if I tried to do it). It may help to watch the animation on the home page of this forum and try to see the sequence of :
1) Trigger pulls back.
2) Trigger lever pushes inward on forward end of sear bar.
3) Back end of sear bar rotates "outward" and releases firing pin.

Personally, I have noticed a wide variation of trigger pulls on lugers. Going from "long and creepy" to "slicker than snot". I have a S/42 1938 Nazi Military re-blue I use as a shooter and the trigger pull is excellent. It breaks a split second before you expect it to break. I took that pistol and another luger to a gunsmith to see if they could duplicate the trigger pull. He said something along the lines of "These are military pistols, not target pistols. The trigger pull is what it is and that is that". I am sure there are others out there skilled enough to modify the luger trigger mechanism if deemed necessary by the owner of the pistol.

Have you field stripped it and given it a good cleaning ? This may help the pull. Especially if the mechanism is "gummed-up".

Sorry I can't comment with any authority on the effect of changing springs other than to say I don't "Think" it would hurt the value. There are others on this forum with the knowledge to speak to that question.

Enjoy your pistols !!

Kitkat041836 · 09-04-2011, 02:51 PM

Hi Jim
Give me a call and I will be glad to help you get a great trigger
pull.
Thanks George
P.S. My phone number is 1-(510)-523-6682

Jim53 · 09-05-2011, 12:47 PM

Thanks for the information. The pistol is clean. I think it is just the "military trigger" issue. I did a little more in depth study of the mecanism and think that if the springs were weak the trigger pull would be lighter. I own several 1911A1 pistols (is that a bad word here?)from WWII and one in particular has a horrendous trigger pull. Anyway, thanks for the help and George I will take you up on that phone call.

Jim

John Sabato · 09-06-2011, 12:14 PM

The E-book titled the Luger Mechanical Features, by Gerard Henrotin will provide some very excellent illustrations on the mechanics of what makes a Luger tick... Highly recommended for new Luger enthusiasts... and it costs less than $10 the last time I checked...

http://www.poudlard.com/ebooks/luger1.zip to download.

ithacaartist · 09-06-2011, 02:59 PM

Yes, Gerard Henrotin's book(s) is (are) quite helpful. Basically, it will walk you through tuning your trigger pull with descriptions and pictures. I'll echo his caveat, go easy...by not taking care to minimize material removal or maintain the correct angles in the interrelated parts, you risk turning it into a full auto gun! If you have an Arkansas stone and some emery paper you're equipped. Oops, almost forgot, always stabilize your work in a non-marring setup such as a vise with non-metallic pads on the jaws.

David Parker

Arizona Slim · 09-06-2011, 05:22 PM

I'll echo his caveat, go easy...by not taking care to minimize material removal or maintain the correct angles in the interrelated parts, you risk turning it into a full auto gun.

Excellent advice from David. At one time I owned a Remington semi-auto .22 that had a very hard trigger pull, I kenw to be careful using the stone on my sear and trigger so lightly took a little metal off before putting it back together, I did this several times before it felt about right, I took it out to the range and to my chagrin I had a full automatic. Needless to say I immediately ordered new parts, as we all know the BATFE frowns on this sort of thing.

Jim53 · 09-08-2011, 12:34 AM

Thanks for the input but I doubt I will monkey with the Erfurt. I have slicked up actions and done home gunsmithing but I would be afraid of ruining a non replaceable part. It seems that every part on that pistol is numbered. I will simply shoot it occasionally and live with the trigger pull. I was just curious about springs and how they affect the trigger pull. Thanks again!

09-04-2011, 11:29 AM	#1
Jim53 User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: God's Country, Montana Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Trigger function I am new to Lugers and to this forum so forgive me if this question has been covered somewhere else here. I finally got to take my two new (to me) Lugers to the range yesterday. A 1920 DWM commercial in .30 Luger and a 1916 Erfurt 9mm. Both are original with matching numbers. The DWM shot as expected with a crisp and predictable trigger. When I shot the Erfurt for the first time the trigger pull was so heavy I thought perhaps the firing pin hadn't reset. Keeping in mind I have never before fired a Luger. My questions are how do the triggers work on these pistols? Could one or more springs be worn out causing this heavy trigger pull condition or is this a common thing for Lugers? And lastly, if I change the springs would it decrease the value of the pistols? I don't plan to shoot the 1916 very often but would like to enjoy them. Thanks for any help. Jim

09-04-2011, 02:51 PM	#3
Kitkat041836 RIP Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 195 Thanks: 0 Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts	Trigger pull Hi Jim Give me a call and I will be glad to help you get a great trigger pull. Thanks George P.S. My phone number is 1-(510)-523-6682

09-06-2011, 12:14 PM	#5
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,154 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,306 Times in 1,097 Posts	The E-book titled the Luger Mechanical Features, by Gerard Henrotin will provide some very excellent illustrations on the mechanics of what makes a Luger tick... Highly recommended for new Luger enthusiasts... and it costs less than $10 the last time I checked... http://www.poudlard.com/ebooks/luger1.zip to download. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

09-04-2011, 01:55 PM	#2
Railsplitter User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts	To describe the interplay of the trigger, trigger lever and sear bar that takes place when one pulls the trigger on a luger would get rather wordy (if I tried to do it). It may help to watch the animation on the home page of this forum and try to see the sequence of : 1) Trigger pulls back. 2) Trigger lever pushes inward on forward end of sear bar. 3) Back end of sear bar rotates "outward" and releases firing pin. Personally, I have noticed a wide variation of trigger pulls on lugers. Going from "long and creepy" to "slicker than snot". I have a S/42 1938 Nazi Military re-blue I use as a shooter and the trigger pull is excellent. It breaks a split second before you expect it to break. I took that pistol and another luger to a gunsmith to see if they could duplicate the trigger pull. He said something along the lines of "These are military pistols, not target pistols. The trigger pull is what it is and that is that". I am sure there are others out there skilled enough to modify the luger trigger mechanism if deemed necessary by the owner of the pistol. Have you field stripped it and given it a good cleaning ? This may help the pull. Especially if the mechanism is "gummed-up". Sorry I can't comment with any authority on the effect of changing springs other than to say I don't "Think" it would hurt the value. There are others on this forum with the knowledge to speak to that question. Enjoy your pistols !!

09-05-2011, 12:47 PM	#4
Jim53 User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: God's Country, Montana Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the information. The pistol is clean. I think it is just the "military trigger" issue. I did a little more in depth study of the mecanism and think that if the springs were weak the trigger pull would be lighter. I own several 1911A1 pistols (is that a bad word here?)from WWII and one in particular has a horrendous trigger pull. Anyway, thanks for the help and George I will take you up on that phone call. Jim

09-06-2011, 02:59 PM	#6
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,343 Thanks: 7,264 Thanked 2,576 Times in 1,364 Posts	Yes, Gerard Henrotin's book(s) is (are) quite helpful. Basically, it will walk you through tuning your trigger pull with descriptions and pictures. I'll echo his caveat, go easy...by not taking care to minimize material removal or maintain the correct angles in the interrelated parts, you risk turning it into a full auto gun! If you have an Arkansas stone and some emery paper you're equipped. Oops, almost forgot, always stabilize your work in a non-marring setup such as a vise with non-metallic pads on the jaws. David Parker

09-06-2011, 05:22 PM	#7
Arizona Slim Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Illinois Posts: 706 Thanks: 1,026 Thanked 409 Times in 225 Posts	I'll echo his caveat, go easy...by not taking care to minimize material removal or maintain the correct angles in the interrelated parts, you risk turning it into a full auto gun. Excellent advice from David. At one time I owned a Remington semi-auto .22 that had a very hard trigger pull, I kenw to be careful using the stone on my sear and trigger so lightly took a little metal off before putting it back together, I did this several times before it felt about right, I took it out to the range and to my chagrin I had a full automatic. Needless to say I immediately ordered new parts, as we all know the BATFE frowns on this sort of thing.

09-08-2011, 12:34 AM	#8
Jim53 User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: God's Country, Montana Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the input but I doubt I will monkey with the Erfurt. I have slicked up actions and done home gunsmithing but I would be afraid of ruining a non replaceable part. It seems that every part on that pistol is numbered. I will simply shoot it occasionally and live with the trigger pull. I was just curious about springs and how they affect the trigger pull. Thanks again!