Having some difficulty with reassembly

jimmythejug · 11-26-2010, 12:10 AM

Hi. Picked up my 1936 Mauser S/42 yesterday and have been looking it over and playing with it in an effort to get acquainted. I flipped the takedown lever down and removed the side plate and the receiver.

Reinstalled the receiver the first time, not realizing that I needed to position S link in front of the recoil lever as I've learned by watching shadow's excellent short videos on takedown and reassembly.

The problem is, with the S link in front of the recoil lever, the receiver does go back all the way (a few mm short of being even with the back of the frame) and the action does not appear to open.

I'm not going to pull back very hard on the receiver because I don't want to break anything. In shadow's video, the receiver goes back and the action appears to come up very easily.

I'll post photos tomorrow, if needed but I just wanted to put this out there in case I'm missing something simple. Thanks in advance for your help!

jimmythejug · 11-26-2010, 12:14 AM

I'll add that I'm guessing that I just need to push back pretty hard on the barrel, which will load up the recoil lever and get the receiver back far enough to allow the takedown lever to turn, but I'm really hesitant to apply and force to a mechanism that I don't fully understand yet!

Oh, and Happy Thanksgiving!

Railsplitter · 11-26-2010, 08:00 AM

With the receiver in the frame rails and the S link engaging the recoil lever properly, the receiver must be pulled back to full recoil in order to allow the side plate to be re-inserted. I call this the "Luger squeeze". With my right palm facing me I place the pistol in my right hand with the barrel pointing to the left. I wrap my right index finger over the toggle so that it wraps over the top of the gun in front of the knurled rings. Then wrap the right thumb over the left grip panel. Now, pull back with your index finger and push forward with your thumb to get the receiver into full recoil, and yes, you are going to feel resistance from the recoil spring but don't worry, nothing is going to fly apart. Reposition the trigger plate being sure that the tiny "lip" at the rear of the trigger plate fits under the leading edge of the flat panel on the left side of the frame. The trigger plate should now literally drop into place and the takedown level can be swung 90 degrees counterclockwise and lock the trigger plate in place. Then you can slowly release the "Luger squeeze" and the receiver will return to battery and stop. It's funny ... it's one of those things that takes a long time to explain, but less than ten seconds to demonstrate! I hope this helps.

FNorm · 11-26-2010, 09:17 AM

Good explanation, though Rail!

FN

jimmythejug · 11-26-2010, 09:46 AM

It did indeed, railsplitter. Thanks for the help! I feel good now because my gun is back together. Obviously, this is a robust piece of equipment but there are some small parts there and I do want to understand its operation fully before I start pulling and pushing on things.

This is all kind of funny, considering the fact that this weapon will never be fired by me!

Two more questions while I have your attention: how do I decock the weapon? I'm used to the lever on my SIG and there's no hammer to grab.

Also: how do you feel about Break Free CLP as a protectant? I used it to clean/store my other gun but I want to make sure the Luger finish stays intact. I don't mind buying something else if there's another formula (such as Hoppe's) that everyone likes.

Thanks again,
Jim

alanint · 11-26-2010, 10:16 AM

The easiest way to decock the gun is to lift the toggles up until you reach an obvious point of resistance from the mainspring. Then, while holding the toggles firmly with your thumb and index finger, pull the trigger and slowly "ride" the toggles down against the spring pressure from the striker, (firing pin).

You gun will then be decocked without having to dry fire it.

jimmythejug · 11-26-2010, 10:21 AM

Hmmm....I just tried that twice and the hammer was still cocked both times.

Neil Young · 11-26-2010, 10:38 AM

Make sure that the safety is not on or it will not decock when you pull the trigger all the way back...

Neil

FNorm · 11-26-2010, 02:17 PM

On most lugers you can feel when it starts to move the striker. About 3/8 inch before fully closed. I pull the trigger at or just before that point.

FN

jimmythejug · 11-26-2010, 02:30 PM

I'm trying but still not getting it. I can feel it **** the trigger about 1/2" into my pull back on the toggle.

Do you pull the trigger while opening or closing the action?

mrerick · 11-26-2010, 02:57 PM

First, make sure that the safety is on. This is in case there is a round in the chamber. I would not attempt to de-**** a Luger with a round in the chamber since the firing pin protrudes under pressure when it's forward in the bolt.

When you open the action, it will automatically allow the firing pin to move slowly forward inside the bolt as any round in the chamber is extracted and ejected. If the magazine is in and it has a magazine hold open, the action will latch open.

Take the safety off.

Remove the magazine. While holding the trigger back, pull the action back to un-latch it from the hold open, and slowly close the action. The firing pin should not engage on the sear and should move forward with the rest of the bolt.

The Luger is de-cocked on an empty chamber.

Remember that a Luger is still a weapon capable of firing a cartridge even when the receiver is disassembled from the frame. The Germans even published posters about accidents.

Marc

Railsplitter · 11-26-2010, 05:29 PM

It almost sounds like you are pulling the toggle assembly back too far. Just lift the knurled rings up off the receiver until the breach opens, what is it guys about 2 or 3 millimeters ?? and hold it there. Then squeeze the trigger and hold it back. Then settle the knurled rings back down on the receiver which will close the breach. Then release the trigger. That should do it. And please, as noted by the other members, no live rounds in the neighborhood!

jimmythejug · 11-26-2010, 06:45 PM

Railsplitter, you and mrerick seem to be using very different techniques. He's saying I should pull the action back all the way. What gives?

No rounds in this gun. As I mentioned, I don't ever plan to fire it, even though I'd like to.

mrerick · 11-26-2010, 08:55 PM

Jim,

There is more than one way to release a sear. Have you tried both? Unless there is something wrong with your Luger's action, you should be able to do it either way. Your choice.

Marc

Railsplitter · 11-26-2010, 11:18 PM

Exactly what Marc said.

jimmythejug · 11-27-2010, 12:07 AM

It does seem to work that way but it's tricky. When I get a chance, I'm going to take it apart and try to understand the mechanism better. I looked this site over quite a bit and around the web but haven't seen much in the way of 3D or cut-away drawings. Any suggestions?

Once again, thanks for your time and guidance. I can't wait to take some nice macro shots to the gun to share with the group!

Railsplitter · 11-27-2010, 12:34 AM

I think you hit the nail on the head. Once you get a better understanding of the mechanism you will see exactly what is actually happening when you de-**** the pistol. Then it will become clear to you why both methods work. Personally, it never ceases to amaze me what goes on when you pull the trigger on one of these beauties. So have fun!

I think there are some E books out there that focus on the mechanism of the Luger, but for statrers the animation on this Forums home page may not be a bad place to begin.

MFC · 11-27-2010, 01:09 AM

The way I understand it Marc's method will not work. The sear bar has to be lifted out of the way of the firing pin as the breechblock is closed. Using Marc's method, the disconnector will be compressed, but the sear bar will not be lifted. This is what happens when you actually fire the gun. The firing pin is cocked after it returns to battery.
The method I use to decock is to pull the toggles up only enough to reach a point where it stops against the pressure of the main spring. You can release them at that point and they will stay there. If you hold the toggles in that position and pull the trigger, you will see the sear bar lift out of the receiver. While still holding the trigger, push the toggles back down. There will be no resistance from the firing pin because it does not engage the sear bar.

mrerick · 11-27-2010, 08:58 AM

Mike,

You're right - what I forgot was that I apply the trigger after the action starts closing, about the moment that the sear reaches the firing pin - just as you described...

The key is that the sear bar is lifted away from the firing pin as it passes that point.

Marc

FNorm · 11-27-2010, 09:25 AM

Go here:

http://www.wonderhowto.com/search/luger/

FN

11-26-2010, 12:10 AM	#1
jimmythejug User Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 36 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Having some difficulty with reassembly Hi. Picked up my 1936 Mauser S/42 yesterday and have been looking it over and playing with it in an effort to get acquainted. I flipped the takedown lever down and removed the side plate and the receiver. Reinstalled the receiver the first time, not realizing that I needed to position S link in front of the recoil lever as I've learned by watching shadow's excellent short videos on takedown and reassembly. The problem is, with the S link in front of the recoil lever, the receiver does go back all the way (a few mm short of being even with the back of the frame) and the action does not appear to open. I'm not going to pull back very hard on the receiver because I don't want to break anything. In shadow's video, the receiver goes back and the action appears to come up very easily. I'll post photos tomorrow, if needed but I just wanted to put this out there in case I'm missing something simple. Thanks in advance for your help!

11-26-2010, 10:38 AM	#8
Neil Young Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Scottsboro, Alabama Posts: 540 Thanks: 546 Thanked 438 Times in 165 Posts	Make sure that the safety is not on or it will not decock when you pull the trigger all the way back... Neil __________________ Neil The hurrier I go the behinder I get. Sometimes it takes me all day to get nothing done.

11-26-2010, 02:57 PM	#11
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,901 Thanks: 1,372 Thanked 3,094 Times in 1,503 Posts	First, make sure that the safety is on. This is in case there is a round in the chamber. I would not attempt to de-**** a Luger with a round in the chamber since the firing pin protrudes under pressure when it's forward in the bolt. When you open the action, it will automatically allow the firing pin to move slowly forward inside the bolt as any round in the chamber is extracted and ejected. If the magazine is in and it has a magazine hold open, the action will latch open. Take the safety off. Remove the magazine. While holding the trigger back, pull the action back to un-latch it from the hold open, and slowly close the action. The firing pin should not engage on the sear and should move forward with the rest of the bolt. The Luger is de-cocked on an empty chamber. Remember that a Luger is still a weapon capable of firing a cartridge even when the receiver is disassembled from the frame. The Germans even published posters about accidents. Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

11-26-2010, 08:55 PM	#14
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,901 Thanks: 1,372 Thanked 3,094 Times in 1,503 Posts	Jim, There is more than one way to release a sear. Have you tried both? Unless there is something wrong with your Luger's action, you should be able to do it either way. Your choice. Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

11-27-2010, 01:09 AM	#18
MFC User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Louisiana Posts: 1,237 Thanks: 183 Thanked 281 Times in 162 Posts	The way I understand it Marc's method will not work. The sear bar has to be lifted out of the way of the firing pin as the breechblock is closed. Using Marc's method, the disconnector will be compressed, but the sear bar will not be lifted. This is what happens when you actually fire the gun. The firing pin is cocked after it returns to battery. The method I use to decock is to pull the toggles up only enough to reach a point where it stops against the pressure of the main spring. You can release them at that point and they will stay there. If you hold the toggles in that position and pull the trigger, you will see the sear bar lift out of the receiver. While still holding the trigger, push the toggles back down. There will be no resistance from the firing pin because it does not engage the sear bar. __________________ Mike C. Last edited by MFC; 11-27-2010 at 03:05 AM.

11-26-2010, 12:14 AM	#2
jimmythejug User Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 36 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I'll add that I'm guessing that I just need to push back pretty hard on the barrel, which will load up the recoil lever and get the receiver back far enough to allow the takedown lever to turn, but I'm really hesitant to apply and force to a mechanism that I don't fully understand yet! Oh, and Happy Thanksgiving!

11-26-2010, 08:00 AM	#3
Railsplitter User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts	With the receiver in the frame rails and the S link engaging the recoil lever properly, the receiver must be pulled back to full recoil in order to allow the side plate to be re-inserted. I call this the "Luger squeeze". With my right palm facing me I place the pistol in my right hand with the barrel pointing to the left. I wrap my right index finger over the toggle so that it wraps over the top of the gun in front of the knurled rings. Then wrap the right thumb over the left grip panel. Now, pull back with your index finger and push forward with your thumb to get the receiver into full recoil, and yes, you are going to feel resistance from the recoil spring but don't worry, nothing is going to fly apart. Reposition the trigger plate being sure that the tiny "lip" at the rear of the trigger plate fits under the leading edge of the flat panel on the left side of the frame. The trigger plate should now literally drop into place and the takedown level can be swung 90 degrees counterclockwise and lock the trigger plate in place. Then you can slowly release the "Luger squeeze" and the receiver will return to battery and stop. It's funny ... it's one of those things that takes a long time to explain, but less than ten seconds to demonstrate! I hope this helps.

11-26-2010, 09:17 AM	#4
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	Good explanation, though Rail! FN

11-26-2010, 09:46 AM	#5
jimmythejug User Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 36 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	It did indeed, railsplitter. Thanks for the help! I feel good now because my gun is back together. Obviously, this is a robust piece of equipment but there are some small parts there and I do want to understand its operation fully before I start pulling and pushing on things. This is all kind of funny, considering the fact that this weapon will never be fired by me! Two more questions while I have your attention: how do I decock the weapon? I'm used to the lever on my SIG and there's no hammer to grab. Also: how do you feel about Break Free CLP as a protectant? I used it to clean/store my other gun but I want to make sure the Luger finish stays intact. I don't mind buying something else if there's another formula (such as Hoppe's) that everyone likes. Thanks again, Jim

11-26-2010, 10:16 AM	#6
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	The easiest way to decock the gun is to lift the toggles up until you reach an obvious point of resistance from the mainspring. Then, while holding the toggles firmly with your thumb and index finger, pull the trigger and slowly "ride" the toggles down against the spring pressure from the striker, (firing pin). You gun will then be decocked without having to dry fire it.

11-26-2010, 10:21 AM	#7
jimmythejug User Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 36 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hmmm....I just tried that twice and the hammer was still cocked both times.

11-26-2010, 02:17 PM	#9
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	On most lugers you can feel when it starts to move the striker. About 3/8 inch before fully closed. I pull the trigger at or just before that point. FN

11-26-2010, 02:30 PM	#10
jimmythejug User Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 36 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I'm trying but still not getting it. I can feel it **** the trigger about 1/2" into my pull back on the toggle. Do you pull the trigger while opening or closing the action?

11-26-2010, 05:29 PM	#12
Railsplitter User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts	It almost sounds like you are pulling the toggle assembly back too far. Just lift the knurled rings up off the receiver until the breach opens, what is it guys about 2 or 3 millimeters ?? and hold it there. Then squeeze the trigger and hold it back. Then settle the knurled rings back down on the receiver which will close the breach. Then release the trigger. That should do it. And please, as noted by the other members, no live rounds in the neighborhood!

11-26-2010, 06:45 PM	#13
jimmythejug User Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 36 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Railsplitter, you and mrerick seem to be using very different techniques. He's saying I should pull the action back all the way. What gives? No rounds in this gun. As I mentioned, I don't ever plan to fire it, even though I'd like to.

11-26-2010, 11:18 PM	#15
Railsplitter User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts	Exactly what Marc said.

11-27-2010, 12:07 AM	#16
jimmythejug User Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 36 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	It does seem to work that way but it's tricky. When I get a chance, I'm going to take it apart and try to understand the mechanism better. I looked this site over quite a bit and around the web but haven't seen much in the way of 3D or cut-away drawings. Any suggestions? Once again, thanks for your time and guidance. I can't wait to take some nice macro shots to the gun to share with the group!

11-27-2010, 12:34 AM	#17
Railsplitter User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts	I think you hit the nail on the head. Once you get a better understanding of the mechanism you will see exactly what is actually happening when you de-**** the pistol. Then it will become clear to you why both methods work. Personally, it never ceases to amaze me what goes on when you pull the trigger on one of these beauties. So have fun! I think there are some E books out there that focus on the mechanism of the Luger, but for statrers the animation on this Forums home page may not be a bad place to begin.

11-27-2010, 08:58 AM	#19
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,901 Thanks: 1,372 Thanked 3,094 Times in 1,503 Posts	Mike, You're right - what I forgot was that I apply the trigger after the action starts closing, about the moment that the sear reaches the firing pin - just as you described... The key is that the sear bar is lifted away from the firing pin as it passes that point. Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

11-27-2010, 09:25 AM	#20
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	Go here: http://www.wonderhowto.com/search/luger/ FN