Coating to prevent rusting

gatornavy · 04-03-2010, 07:56 AM

Greetings to Forum
Considering having Brownells Zinc Phosphate Parkerizing done to my fathers WWII bring back. Want to protect and still get as close to the present appearance as possible. Does anyone have personal experience with the product or is there a better way. There is currently a thread on the New Collectors forum with more info and photos of pistol. Just wanted to put it here too. Thanks in advance for any help.
Ron

chuck17 · 04-03-2010, 01:59 PM

Is that a 1916? It looks pretty rough around the edges. How is the bore? I have seen some real rust-buckets with nice bores. Is that a bare metal finish, or was it chromed or nickeled?

There are a lot of options out there for refinishing that Luger. Is this something that is a family heirloom or just something that you want to be a shooter? If you want to preserve it for future generations, you might want to consider a professional restoration. If a shooter, I say try doing it yourself!

Since it is not a collectible, I don't see any reason to not refinish it. I have used the Brownells zinc phosphate and it works perfectly to Parkerize it, but it will be a soft gray in color. The look of the pitting will be softened by the Parkerized finish, but it will have a rough surface.

The zinc phosphate is also the perfect base for Gunkote, which would smooth the finish and protect it to an even greater extent. If you choose to spray on a finish over it, Gunkote has many colors to choose from. I have only used the flat black and it looks good to me, and it is very durable.

Alternatively, you might also try your hand at rust bluing, with some Pilkingtons rust blue formula available from Brownells. It is much more labor intensive, but will provide a very durable and rich blue-black finish. It will not hide the pitting as well as Parkerizing, though.

Good luck at whatever you decide!

gatornavy · 04-04-2010, 09:58 AM

Thanks for all info Chuck
Yes, it is a 1916 that Dad got June 13th, 1944 one week after his jump into France. I am basically involved in a family-father project to make sure gun is still in safe condition as a shooter. He will be 88 on May 25th and still keeps the luger as his primary HD. Will not have it any other way. This will be his birthday gift. It is now at the local gunsmith who will clean, check mechanically, and test fire. The gun still has same finish it had in 1944 which seems to be some type of clear/light gray that is about 50% worn off in areas that get the most use/handling. It has to be steel wooled and oiled to fight surface rust. We want to re-coat with something permanent that will leave the current appearance and still protect the surface. The Brownell Phosphate sounds like a good possibility and was seeking advice and opinions. Will not do the work myself but have found someone fairly closeby. Luger will always just be a family collectable. Again, appreciate all your comments and will post photos of before and after to all who have helped us.
Ron

Edward Tinker · 04-04-2010, 10:15 AM

NO, DO NOT REFINISH THIS

Keep it as Dad brought back; if it has become daamged from "steel wool" and cleaning (my guess) then perhaps it should be restroed?

Few guns coming back from the war were as worn as yours, although it is 90 some years old...

Ed

Ron Wood · 04-04-2010, 11:14 AM

Looks like it has been stripped with naval jelly. That would take it down to bare metal and leave a light phosphate coating. The rust spots on the grip straps could be retreated the same way then lightly oiled and left that way.

Went Blakely · 04-10-2010, 06:41 AM

I would agree with Ron, that's what would give it that rather interesting phosphate finish. I would just lube it, and keep it oiled and leave as is. Great looking piece with history imho

gatornavy · 04-11-2010, 12:58 PM

Got pistol back from local gun shop. They test fired, disassembled, cleaned, fired again, "gently" removed surface rust, and sprayed with a silicone coating (see photo). We took forums advice on not trying to refinish for which I am grateful. Keeping it oiled in the future is the plan.
Now I have another question/problem. On both test fires the gun would not re-****. I read and copied the forum thread which sounds like the same problem (?). Everything else works fine but have to manually operate the toggle to fire next round. The local guys recommend that I find somebody who is more of a luger specialist. I am on the SC coast half way between Charleston, SC and Savannah, GA. Willing to do some driving but do not want to attempt the repair my self nor am I inclined to ship the pistol. Hoping someone on board can recommend someone in the area.
Again, all past help is greatly appreciated. Still having fun.
Ron

04-03-2010, 07:56 AM	#1
gatornavy User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: South Carolina Posts: 23 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Coating to prevent rusting Greetings to Forum Considering having Brownells Zinc Phosphate Parkerizing done to my fathers WWII bring back. Want to protect and still get as close to the present appearance as possible. Does anyone have personal experience with the product or is there a better way. There is currently a thread on the New Collectors forum with more info and photos of pistol. Just wanted to put it here too. Thanks in advance for any help. Ron Attached Thumbnails

04-03-2010, 01:59 PM	#2
chuck17 User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Fla Posts: 27 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	Is that a 1916? It looks pretty rough around the edges. How is the bore? I have seen some real rust-buckets with nice bores. Is that a bare metal finish, or was it chromed or nickeled? There are a lot of options out there for refinishing that Luger. Is this something that is a family heirloom or just something that you want to be a shooter? If you want to preserve it for future generations, you might want to consider a professional restoration. If a shooter, I say try doing it yourself! Since it is not a collectible, I don't see any reason to not refinish it. I have used the Brownells zinc phosphate and it works perfectly to Parkerize it, but it will be a soft gray in color. The look of the pitting will be softened by the Parkerized finish, but it will have a rough surface. The zinc phosphate is also the perfect base for Gunkote, which would smooth the finish and protect it to an even greater extent. If you choose to spray on a finish over it, Gunkote has many colors to choose from. I have only used the flat black and it looks good to me, and it is very durable. Alternatively, you might also try your hand at rust bluing, with some Pilkingtons rust blue formula available from Brownells. It is much more labor intensive, but will provide a very durable and rich blue-black finish. It will not hide the pitting as well as Parkerizing, though. Good luck at whatever you decide! Last edited by chuck17; 04-03-2010 at 02:01 PM. Reason: forgot to ask: is it a bare metal finish?

04-04-2010, 10:15 AM	#4
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,966 Thanks: 2,066 Thanked 4,595 Times in 2,116 Posts	NO, DO NOT REFINISH THIS Keep it as Dad brought back; if it has become daamged from "steel wool" and cleaning (my guess) then perhaps it should be restroed? Few guns coming back from the war were as worn as yours, although it is 90 some years old... Ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

04-04-2010, 11:14 AM	#5
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,040 Thanks: 1,106 Thanked 5,257 Times in 1,724 Posts	Looks like it has been stripped with naval jelly. That would take it down to bare metal and leave a light phosphate coating. The rust spots on the grip straps could be retreated the same way then lightly oiled and left that way. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

04-10-2010, 06:41 AM	#6
Went Blakely User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Australia Posts: 231 Thanks: 4 Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts	I would agree with Ron, that's what would give it that rather interesting phosphate finish. I would just lube it, and keep it oiled and leave as is. Great looking piece with history imho __________________ Went Blakely

04-04-2010, 09:58 AM	#3
gatornavy User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: South Carolina Posts: 23 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for all info Chuck Yes, it is a 1916 that Dad got June 13th, 1944 one week after his jump into France. I am basically involved in a family-father project to make sure gun is still in safe condition as a shooter. He will be 88 on May 25th and still keeps the luger as his primary HD. Will not have it any other way. This will be his birthday gift. It is now at the local gunsmith who will clean, check mechanically, and test fire. The gun still has same finish it had in 1944 which seems to be some type of clear/light gray that is about 50% worn off in areas that get the most use/handling. It has to be steel wooled and oiled to fight surface rust. We want to re-coat with something permanent that will leave the current appearance and still protect the surface. The Brownell Phosphate sounds like a good possibility and was seeking advice and opinions. Will not do the work myself but have found someone fairly closeby. Luger will always just be a family collectable. Again, appreciate all your comments and will post photos of before and after to all who have helped us. Ron

04-11-2010, 12:58 PM	#7
gatornavy User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: South Carolina Posts: 23 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Update on 1916 Bring Back Got pistol back from local gun shop. They test fired, disassembled, cleaned, fired again, "gently" removed surface rust, and sprayed with a silicone coating (see photo). We took forums advice on not trying to refinish for which I am grateful. Keeping it oiled in the future is the plan. Now I have another question/problem. On both test fires the gun would not re-****. I read and copied the forum thread which sounds like the same problem (?). Everything else works fine but have to manually operate the toggle to fire next round. The local guys recommend that I find somebody who is more of a luger specialist. I am on the SC coast half way between Charleston, SC and Savannah, GA. Willing to do some driving but do not want to attempt the repair my self nor am I inclined to ship the pistol. Hoping someone on board can recommend someone in the area. Again, all past help is greatly appreciated. Still having fun. Ron Attached Thumbnails