Heat treating the trigger bar

bob2ovi · 09-25-2015, 12:24 PM

On my original shooter the metal in the trigger bar in the area of the sear is rolling up where it contacts the firing pin. This happened about 50 shots ago. I stoned the burr down, but it is now back. The metal can be cut with a file so this time I plan on re-hardening it with kasenit and quenching in oil. I have 2 questions. Should I draw the temper after the kasenit? Also any ideas on why this happened? The firing pin looks good, and as far as I know the firing pin spring is original. I have some spring stock and could try a lightened spring if you think that would help.

DonVoigt · 09-25-2015, 01:11 PM

Yes,
you should draw after quench. How much is another question!
I'd go to about 350 degrees, or right at bright blue-blue.

Why- probably not done right the first time, but not fired much before you got it; or fired a lot and just wore through the surface hardening.

The lightest spring that gives you sure ignition would be optimal, just keep it original length.

Not much down side to doing this, you can always replace the sear bar on a shooter.

All JMHO.

sheepherder · 09-25-2015, 01:19 PM

Do you have a picture of the 'trigger bar' with the rolled up metal???

It would be most instructive for members who may have this occurrence in the future...

bob2ovi · 09-26-2015, 12:41 PM

No I don't have the ability to sent pictures..... Too long in the teeth I guess. Just not a computer person.

bob2ovi · 10-03-2015, 01:26 PM

Thanks DonVoigt,

I went ahead and used kasenit and drew the temper. Since then have put around 75 rounds thru it with no sigh of problems.

09-25-2015, 12:24 PM	#1
bob2ovi User Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Westerville, Ohio Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Heat treating the trigger bar On my original shooter the metal in the trigger bar in the area of the sear is rolling up where it contacts the firing pin. This happened about 50 shots ago. I stoned the burr down, but it is now back. The metal can be cut with a file so this time I plan on re-hardening it with kasenit and quenching in oil. I have 2 questions. Should I draw the temper after the kasenit? Also any ideas on why this happened? The firing pin looks good, and as far as I know the firing pin spring is original. I have some spring stock and could try a lightened spring if you think that would help.

09-25-2015, 01:19 PM	#3
sheepherder Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal... Posts: 8,182 Thanks: 1,400 Thanked 4,442 Times in 2,330 Posts	Do you have a picture of the 'trigger bar' with the rolled up metal??? It would be most instructive for members who may have this occurrence in the future... __________________ I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...

09-25-2015, 01:11 PM	#2
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,681 Thanks: 1,441 Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts	Yes, you should draw after quench. How much is another question! I'd go to about 350 degrees, or right at bright blue-blue. Why- probably not done right the first time, but not fired much before you got it; or fired a lot and just wore through the surface hardening. The lightest spring that gives you sure ignition would be optimal, just keep it original length. Not much down side to doing this, you can always replace the sear bar on a shooter. All JMHO.

09-26-2015, 12:41 PM	#4
bob2ovi User Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Westerville, Ohio Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	No I don't have the ability to sent pictures..... Too long in the teeth I guess. Just not a computer person.

10-03-2015, 01:26 PM	#5
bob2ovi User Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Westerville, Ohio Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Thanks DonVoigt, I went ahead and used kasenit and drew the temper. Since then have put around 75 rounds thru it with no sigh of problems.