1913 Erfurt Luger

bluesteel68 · 05-27-2009, 11:36 PM

Hello all. This is my first post here on the forum. I am new to Lugers, having just acquired one from my father-in-law. When they moved into their house, he found a Luger pistol in the attic. Being on the coast and unprotected, it was rusted over pretty bad. He never really did anything with it, and I made the comment this past weekend that it would be a fun project. He told me to take it since he would never do anything with it. The bottom of the magazine was broken off, and the spring was of course missing. After soaking in a penetrating oil, here is what I know so far.

It is a 1913 Erfurt Luger. The serial number is 7575. This number matches everything that is numbered on the pistol. The grip screws are rusted so I have not been able to remove them yet, but I have managed to free the side plate and remove the barrel. (After a longgggg soak in penetrating oil) I am hoping that after another long soak, I will be able to remove the grips and completely strip the pistol for a thorough cleaning.

Any advice on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated. I will post some pics as soon as possible.

Thanks for your time and all the great information I have received so far.

Mark

Ice · 05-28-2009, 05:05 AM

Mark, welcome to the forum. It sounds like that Luger will indeed be a fun project. Soaking in oil is always a good idea just to get it apart. For me, after its apart, I would not attack the remaining rust with a wire brush, sandpaper, or even (at this point) with steel wool. Brownells sells a chemical rust stripper called Steel White that dissolves the rust while not harming the base metal. I would go this route. After everything is apart and derusted then you can decide whether to try to refinish or even if the gun is safe to shoot. In any case you have a fine relic from the past. Congrats!

Charlie

John Sabato · 05-28-2009, 09:20 AM

Good advice from Ice... Please take lots of before and after photos and make this a photo essay on your restoration of this piece of history. It will be a model for others to follow...

Welcome to the Lugerforum and we look forward to your photos!

Heinz · 05-28-2009, 07:29 PM

Personally, I would hold off on the chemical stripper. It is one of those things once done you can never go back. Spending some quality time with your relic and 3 or 4 ought steel wool may bring up a pleasant patina under all that rust. You may get a nice brown finish. You can also steam it in between steel wooling.

A.Mifsin · 05-29-2009, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heinz

Personally, I would hold off on the chemical stripper. It is one of those things once done you can never go back. Spending some quality time with your relic and 3 or 4 ought steel wool may bring up a pleasant patina under all that rust. You may get a nice brown finish. You can also steam it in between steel wooling.

What do you mean when you say "You can also steam it in between steel wooling" and why one should do that please.
Alf

Ice · 05-29-2009, 05:39 AM

What Heinz means it this: steaming or boiling rusted metal in water converts rust into black oxide; this is the same as rust blueing. IMHO the process all depends on the extent of the rusting and pitting. On a lightly rusted pistol it would be acceptable to steam or boil it. As an alternative it would be okay to use even oiled 4-0 steel or bronze wool to remove light patches of rust. You described having to soak the pistol in oil for a loonng time to even be able to remove the sideplate and barrel. This indicates a worst case scenario in my mind. Some people would pop a heavy wire wheel brush in their electric drill to remove the rust. This is the worst thing you could do. I suggested the chemical stripper for use on a true basket case because it removes rust from every nook and cranny of the pistol; places that are hard to reach sometimes. Each repair/restoration is unique because the extent of damage is always different. IMO your oil soaking approach is an excellent way to start. After you get it apart, please post some photos. I'm sure that someone will make a suggestion of a way to approach the next step.

Charlie

A.Mifsin · 05-29-2009, 07:51 AM

Thank you Charlie for the info, maybe someone can explain the difference between Rust blue and Salt blue, or point a link to this sublect.

tks
Alf.

John Sabato · 05-29-2009, 09:53 AM

Salt Blue is an artificially produced chemical reaction, using purchased chemicals (specialized salts) for this purpose. It is a much less labor intensive and less costly process, hence the change from Rust blue to salt blue by Mauser in 1937 (wartime).

05-27-2009, 11:36 PM	#1
bluesteel68 New User Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	1913 Erfurt Luger Hello all. This is my first post here on the forum. I am new to Lugers, having just acquired one from my father-in-law. When they moved into their house, he found a Luger pistol in the attic. Being on the coast and unprotected, it was rusted over pretty bad. He never really did anything with it, and I made the comment this past weekend that it would be a fun project. He told me to take it since he would never do anything with it. The bottom of the magazine was broken off, and the spring was of course missing. After soaking in a penetrating oil, here is what I know so far. It is a 1913 Erfurt Luger. The serial number is 7575. This number matches everything that is numbered on the pistol. The grip screws are rusted so I have not been able to remove them yet, but I have managed to free the side plate and remove the barrel. (After a longgggg soak in penetrating oil) I am hoping that after another long soak, I will be able to remove the grips and completely strip the pistol for a thorough cleaning. Any advice on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated. I will post some pics as soon as possible. Thanks for your time and all the great information I have received so far. Mark

05-28-2009, 09:20 AM	#3
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,153 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	Good advice from Ice... Please take lots of before and after photos and make this a photo essay on your restoration of this piece of history. It will be a model for others to follow... Welcome to the Lugerforum and we look forward to your photos! __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

05-29-2009, 07:51 AM	#7
A.Mifsin User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 570 Thanks: 74 Thanked 12 Times in 12 Posts	Thank you Charlie for the info, maybe someone can explain the difference between Rust blue and Salt blue, or point a link to this sublect.tks Alf. __________________ I prefer a Luger

05-29-2009, 09:53 AM	#8
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,153 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	Salt Blue is an artificially produced chemical reaction, using purchased chemicals (specialized salts) for this purpose. It is a much less labor intensive and less costly process, hence the change from Rust blue to salt blue by Mauser in 1937 (wartime). __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

05-28-2009, 05:05 AM	#2
Ice User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 552 Thanks: 13 Thanked 69 Times in 57 Posts	Mark, welcome to the forum. It sounds like that Luger will indeed be a fun project. Soaking in oil is always a good idea just to get it apart. For me, after its apart, I would not attack the remaining rust with a wire brush, sandpaper, or even (at this point) with steel wool. Brownells sells a chemical rust stripper called Steel White that dissolves the rust while not harming the base metal. I would go this route. After everything is apart and derusted then you can decide whether to try to refinish or even if the gun is safe to shoot. In any case you have a fine relic from the past. Congrats! Charlie

05-28-2009, 07:29 PM	#4
Heinz User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Greenville SC Posts: 1,004 Thanks: 377 Thanked 410 Times in 180 Posts	Personally, I would hold off on the chemical stripper. It is one of those things once done you can never go back. Spending some quality time with your relic and 3 or 4 ought steel wool may bring up a pleasant patina under all that rust. You may get a nice brown finish. You can also steam it in between steel wooling.

05-29-2009, 05:39 AM	#6
Ice User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 552 Thanks: 13 Thanked 69 Times in 57 Posts	What Heinz means it this: steaming or boiling rusted metal in water converts rust into black oxide; this is the same as rust blueing. IMHO the process all depends on the extent of the rusting and pitting. On a lightly rusted pistol it would be acceptable to steam or boil it. As an alternative it would be okay to use even oiled 4-0 steel or bronze wool to remove light patches of rust. You described having to soak the pistol in oil for a loonng time to even be able to remove the sideplate and barrel. This indicates a worst case scenario in my mind. Some people would pop a heavy wire wheel brush in their electric drill to remove the rust. This is the worst thing you could do. I suggested the chemical stripper for use on a true basket case because it removes rust from every nook and cranny of the pistol; places that are hard to reach sometimes. Each repair/restoration is unique because the extent of damage is always different. IMO your oil soaking approach is an excellent way to start. After you get it apart, please post some photos. I'm sure that someone will make a suggestion of a way to approach the next step. Charlie