Luger grip safety

JohnPGI · 07-20-2020, 01:33 PM

Good afternoon,
I am a new member and just purchased my first post WWII Luger with a grip safety. My problem is that the safety pinches the webbing between the thumb and fore finger. Is it my hands or is this a problem that can be solved??
Thank you for your input
John

DonVoigt · 07-20-2020, 02:00 PM

It is your hand(and the grip safety).

I have the same problem; I find that if I put a layer or two of the soft/fuzzy "loop" side of Velcro on the safety,
it helps prevent pinching and also gives a more secure depress to relieve the sear bar for movement.

And it is removable without damaging the finish.

sheepherder · 07-20-2020, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnPGI

I am a new member and just purchased my first post WWII Luger with a grip safety.

So that would be one of the 1970's Mauser Lugers??? There has been some discussion of the method used to secure the grips on these Lugers; I have to wonder if the positioning of the pins and/or screws doesn't somehow affect the grip safety...

I have a 1902 7.65 Luger with the 'wide' grip safety and have had no problems with any pinching. Mine uses the more 'traditional' method of securing the grips.

Vlim · 07-21-2020, 10:07 AM

The grip safety is copied from the Swiss Model 1929 pistol and it is not influenced by the grip construction.

The only difference is that the post war Mauser grip safety area has been shortened so it looks more like the 1906 type.

It is possible to remove it completely, but not advisable as you will have no safety mechanism left. Adding a Swiss safety is also possible, combined with Swiss grips or modified Mauser ones, if the pistol has the Swiss style frame.

Modifying the contour of the Swiss wrap around safety to a 1906 style also should not be too difficult.

JohnPGI · 07-21-2020, 01:56 PM

Thank you all for your input..Looks like there is a solution..Now to just decide which way to go.

HisSoldier · 11-25-2020, 01:53 AM

I removed the grip safety of my 7.63 Mauser made in the 70's.

Most of the safety mechanism which is under the grip on the left side has to be left by my method, which leaves the manual safety functional though running backwards, ie up vs down. The gaps in the rear of the grip panels were filled with a walnut wood and I had my gunsmith checker to match. In the closeup photo you can see that we didn't get the wood as well matched as we thought we had, it's darker.

If I were considering it again I wouldn't do it even though it's mechanically perfect, and it wouldn't be difficult to return to original condition by just buying a replacement grip safety and removing the walnut from the gaps.

However due to collector value I think I'd buy a mismatched shooter instead, an old beat up P-08 with rust pitting and worn off bluing shoots exactly the same as a pristine collector gun, so it makes no sense to semi-permanently modify one.

Kiwi · 11-25-2020, 09:40 AM

There is an old Carpenter's adage "Measure twice, cut once".
I ponder any changes for months before (figuratively) pulling the trigger.

I will swap out grips in an instant, but metal changes cannot be undone so easy.
I did have to fit an extractor to my Erma, but that was because it had no extractor when I got it.
All fitting was to the new part.

That said some triggers are so awful that something has to be done to make shooting a pleasure, no one likes to drag a knife blade over concrete (What my Gov't 45 trigger felt like).

Vlim · 11-25-2020, 10:29 AM

It helps that post war Parabellum parts are around and are not numbered to the gun to start with, so they can be replaced when needed. Last year a German outfit was selling factory new grip safeties, for example.

DonVoigt · 11-25-2020, 10:47 AM

Lugerdoc has the later Mauser grip safeties, or did.

HisSoldier · 12-06-2020, 01:24 PM

It seemed to me, and still does, that the 1970's safety (The only ones I've examined) are clunky not only because they can pinch the flesh of the hand but also in the way they work.
When the manual safety is off it simply stays out of the way of the grip safety. When you apply the manual safety it prevents the grip safety from pushing forward.
So, if you apply your grip to the grip safety with the manual safety inadvertently on you have to release pressure (IIRC) to release the grip safety.
So far not too bad because you have to open your hand slightly to push the manual safety down (covering "Safety" in German) in order to allow the manual safety to block it, in other words, you have to open your grip pressure to allow the manual safety to be pushed down and off.

OTH if you have the GS off and desire to apply it you have to release pressure from the GS entirely to allow the manual safety to go up to the safety on position. I felt it was a quick lawyer fix that could be said in court to be effective while not being natural in use.

So just now I went to my other example and the safety use seems pretty natural, if you draw the gun to use it and the safety is on you know it immediately because your hand cannot close all the way properly, and reaching your thumb up to pull it down automatically releases the grip safety.

Still, it's not like a 1911 safety which is independent of the manual safety.

On the altered pistol when the manual safety is "ON" (Sear covered, lever down (German word "Safe" covered unfortunately) it's safe, with the lever up is off and the sear is unblocked and "Safe" shows. To see it clearly see the top photo of my earlier post.

I reasoned that as my personal shooter the German word for safe had no meaning to me.

07-20-2020, 01:33 PM	#1
JohnPGI New User Join Date: Jun 2020 Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Luger grip safety Good afternoon, I am a new member and just purchased my first post WWII Luger with a grip safety. My problem is that the safety pinches the webbing between the thumb and fore finger. Is it my hands or is this a problem that can be solved?? Thank you for your input John

07-20-2020, 02:00 PM	#2
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,681 Thanks: 1,441 Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts	It is your hand(and the grip safety). I have the same problem; I find that if I put a layer or two of the soft/fuzzy "loop" side of Velcro on the safety, it helps prevent pinching and also gives a more secure depress to relieve the sear bar for movement. And it is removable without damaging the finish. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

11-25-2020, 01:53 AM	#6
HisSoldier User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Oregon Coast Posts: 95 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 10 Posts	I removed the grip safety of my 7.63 Mauser made in the 70's. Most of the safety mechanism which is under the grip on the left side has to be left by my method, which leaves the manual safety functional though running backwards, ie up vs down. The gaps in the rear of the grip panels were filled with a walnut wood and I had my gunsmith checker to match. In the closeup photo you can see that we didn't get the wood as well matched as we thought we had, it's darker. If I were considering it again I wouldn't do it even though it's mechanically perfect, and it wouldn't be difficult to return to original condition by just buying a replacement grip safety and removing the walnut from the gaps. However due to collector value I think I'd buy a mismatched shooter instead, an old beat up P-08 with rust pitting and worn off bluing shoots exactly the same as a pristine collector gun, so it makes no sense to semi-permanently modify one. __________________ The fear of the Lord is the beginning of wisdom

11-25-2020, 10:47 AM	#9
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,681 Thanks: 1,441 Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts	Lugerdoc has the later Mauser grip safeties, or did. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

12-06-2020, 01:24 PM	#10
HisSoldier User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Oregon Coast Posts: 95 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 10 Posts	It seemed to me, and still does, that the 1970's safety (The only ones I've examined) are clunky not only because they can pinch the flesh of the hand but also in the way they work. When the manual safety is off it simply stays out of the way of the grip safety. When you apply the manual safety it prevents the grip safety from pushing forward. So, if you apply your grip to the grip safety with the manual safety inadvertently on you have to release pressure (IIRC) to release the grip safety. So far not too bad because you have to open your hand slightly to push the manual safety down (covering "Safety" in German) in order to allow the manual safety to block it, in other words, you have to open your grip pressure to allow the manual safety to be pushed down and off. OTH if you have the GS off and desire to apply it you have to release pressure from the GS entirely to allow the manual safety to go up to the safety on position. I felt it was a quick lawyer fix that could be said in court to be effective while not being natural in use. So just now I went to my other example and the safety use seems pretty natural, if you draw the gun to use it and the safety is on you know it immediately because your hand cannot close all the way properly, and reaching your thumb up to pull it down automatically releases the grip safety. Still, it's not like a 1911 safety which is independent of the manual safety. On the altered pistol when the manual safety is "ON" (Sear covered, lever down (German word "Safe" covered unfortunately) it's safe, with the lever up is off and the sear is unblocked and "Safe" shows. To see it clearly see the top photo of my earlier post. I reasoned that as my personal shooter the German word for safe had no meaning to me. __________________ The fear of the Lord is the beginning of wisdom

07-21-2020, 10:07 AM	#4
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,053 Thanks: 1,036 Thanked 3,988 Times in 1,205 Posts	The grip safety is copied from the Swiss Model 1929 pistol and it is not influenced by the grip construction. The only difference is that the post war Mauser grip safety area has been shortened so it looks more like the 1906 type. It is possible to remove it completely, but not advisable as you will have no safety mechanism left. Adding a Swiss safety is also possible, combined with Swiss grips or modified Mauser ones, if the pistol has the Swiss style frame. Modifying the contour of the Swiss wrap around safety to a 1906 style also should not be too difficult.

07-21-2020, 01:56 PM	#5
JohnPGI New User Join Date: Jun 2020 Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thank you all for your input..Looks like there is a solution..Now to just decide which way to go.

11-25-2020, 09:40 AM	#7
Kiwi User Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Wrong side of the Delaware river Posts: 303 Thanks: 213 Thanked 434 Times in 171 Posts	There is an old Carpenter's adage "Measure twice, cut once". I ponder any changes for months before (figuratively) pulling the trigger. I will swap out grips in an instant, but metal changes cannot be undone so easy. I did have to fit an extractor to my Erma, but that was because it had no extractor when I got it. All fitting was to the new part. That said some triggers are so awful that something has to be done to make shooting a pleasure, no one likes to drag a knife blade over concrete (What my Gov't 45 trigger felt like).

11-25-2020, 10:29 AM	#8
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,053 Thanks: 1,036 Thanked 3,988 Times in 1,205 Posts	It helps that post war Parabellum parts are around and are not numbered to the gun to start with, so they can be replaced when needed. Last year a German outfit was selling factory new grip safeties, for example.