project

sidhartha · 11-01-2003, 07:48 PM

I have not been on here for sometime, but I recall there were some picures posted that showed how the forarm was attached to the frame of a carbine. Could someone repost that. I have a miss matched DWM that someone butchered. For some unknown reason they ground the stock lug and rear of the toggle off. I am thinking of making a long barreled pistol out of it and am trying to figure the best way to attach forarm for it.

sidhartha · 11-01-2003, 08:31 PM

please disregard this post. I found what I needed in another post.

Dean · 11-01-2003, 09:16 PM

Hello sidhartha

I am also constructing a 16" carbine.

Look under the early lugers section under the heading "1902 carbine attachment".

The attachment of the frame extention is challanging. It is more difficult on a modern stainless model (which is what I am attempting).

On the original carbines, a slot is milled through the lower reciever to accomodate the extention. It then looks like they are then welded (brazed/soldered?) together from the inside. Care must be made to provide sufficient clearance for the take-down lever.

The new Aimco/Orimar/Stoeger stainless models are more difficult. The frame is cast very thin in this region. In addition, 416 stainless does not weld nicely. The only solution I have thought about thus far is to not mill the frame. Instead, I was thinking of contouring the frame extention to a tight match of the front of the trigger guard and frame. There is room for a screw through the frame from the inside where the takedown lever is. Two additional locating pins could be placed at topmost and lowest portions of the frame extention where it contacts the frame to provide extra rigidness against the long moment arm of the extension.

sidhartha · 11-02-2003, 10:10 AM

Thanks Dean,

I found that post right after I posted my question. It shows just what I was wanting to see. I am building my carbine on an old luger that has been messed up already. So I should not have the problem with the stainless and welding. I am not trying to replicate an original design exactly. Just trying to an idea how to attach things.

Pete Ebbink · 11-02-2003, 01:22 PM

There were some great photos posted by Ron Wood and others in this thread :

http://forums.lugerforum.com/lugerfo...c;f=1;t=000123

Regards,

Pete... <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />

11-01-2003, 07:48 PM	#1
sidhartha User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Indiana Posts: 52 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	project I have not been on here for sometime, but I recall there were some picures posted that showed how the forarm was attached to the frame of a carbine. Could someone repost that. I have a miss matched DWM that someone butchered. For some unknown reason they ground the stock lug and rear of the toggle off. I am thinking of making a long barreled pistol out of it and am trying to figure the best way to attach forarm for it. __________________ "A little lemon and seltzer will remove ink stains after you've been fingerprinted. " -Martha Stewart

11-01-2003, 08:31 PM	#2
sidhartha User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Indiana Posts: 52 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	please disregard this post. I found what I needed in another post. __________________ "A little lemon and seltzer will remove ink stains after you've been fingerprinted. " -Martha Stewart

11-01-2003, 09:16 PM	#3
Dean User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: PA Posts: 132 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hello sidhartha I am also constructing a 16" carbine. Look under the early lugers section under the heading "1902 carbine attachment". The attachment of the frame extention is challanging. It is more difficult on a modern stainless model (which is what I am attempting). On the original carbines, a slot is milled through the lower reciever to accomodate the extention. It then looks like they are then welded (brazed/soldered?) together from the inside. Care must be made to provide sufficient clearance for the take-down lever. The new Aimco/Orimar/Stoeger stainless models are more difficult. The frame is cast very thin in this region. In addition, 416 stainless does not weld nicely. The only solution I have thought about thus far is to not mill the frame. Instead, I was thinking of contouring the frame extention to a tight match of the front of the trigger guard and frame. There is room for a screw through the frame from the inside where the takedown lever is. Two additional locating pins could be placed at topmost and lowest portions of the frame extention where it contacts the frame to provide extra rigidness against the long moment arm of the extension. __________________ Carpe Diem, Parabellum

11-02-2003, 10:10 AM	#4
sidhartha User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Indiana Posts: 52 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks Dean, I found that post right after I posted my question. It shows just what I was wanting to see. I am building my carbine on an old luger that has been messed up already. So I should not have the problem with the stainless and welding. I am not trying to replicate an original design exactly. Just trying to an idea how to attach things. __________________ "A little lemon and seltzer will remove ink stains after you've been fingerprinted. " -Martha Stewart

11-02-2003, 01:22 PM	#5
Pete Ebbink User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The USA Posts: 5,919 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	There were some great photos posted by Ron Wood and others in this thread : http://forums.lugerforum.com/lugerfo...c;f=1;t=000123 Regards, Pete... <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />