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10-26-2005, 07:36 PM | #1 |
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1916 Erfurt Question
Way out of my league here on Imperial Lugers. Saw what appears to be an all matching 1916 dated Erfurt Luger rig today. One magazine matches, both are wood based and Imperial proofed. Comes with a hardshell holster. Didn't even think to check if the P08 is unit marked.
I have a couple questions. -should any parts be strawed on this P08? -should the grips be serialed to the pistol? -would the finish be more of a salt blue than a rust blue? -there were no markings on the back of the holster, is this normal for a WW1 era holster? All stitching appears tight and correct. -And finally, the only obvious thing I see wrong is that when I pull back on the toggle with an empty magazine in place, the action does not hold open, so there is force against the magazine (which makes removing the mag difficult). Easy fix? Any help would be greatly apprecaited, sorry I have no pics. Thanks again Gentlemen. Joe |
10-26-2005, 08:16 PM | #2 |
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Hi Joe,
Welcome to the Forum..this is a great group. Now to your questions: I have a couple questions. -should any parts be strawed on this P08? Yes. The trigger, take-down lever and safety asembly should be strawed. -should the grips be serialed to the pistol? Yes, that was *generally* the practice; however, period replacement grips with no number are often encountered. The replacements may be checkered walnut or, for late war replacements, beech. -would the finish be more of a salt blue than a rust blue? These guns are rust blued; any other finish is a serious problem. -there were no markings on the back of the holster, is this normal for a WW1 era holster? All stitching appears tight and correct. Holster marking does not follow any particular pattern. I have found Imperial leather marked on the inside, under the bucket, on the closing strap and on the face of the holster. Suggest you dust the thing with talc or corn starch, give it a light dusting and see what shows up. A loupe and Ott light is handy here. -And finally, the only obvious thing I see wrong is that when I pull back on the toggle with an empty magazine in place, the action does not hold open, so there is force against the magazine (which makes removing the mag difficult). Easy fix? Not *really* my area of expertise; but there are loads of folks on this site who can diagnose functioning problems with dispatch. Hope this helps! Tom A |
10-26-2005, 08:43 PM | #3 |
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Thanks once again Tom, you have helped me out before for sure. I feel fortunate to have your expertise so close at hand. take care,
Joe |
10-26-2005, 08:47 PM | #4 |
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Joe, the magazine release button and the ejector (on the right side of the Luger) should also be straw colored!
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10-26-2005, 10:30 PM | #5 |
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Thank you Frank, take care,
Joe |
10-27-2005, 10:50 AM | #6 |
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The toggle not remaining open may not be a problem at all. This may be one of the Lugers that escaped the refit for a holdopen device. Do some searches for "holdopen" and see if you can find a photo of what they look like and where they sit when installed. You should also find several threads on possible causes in case you do have a holdopen and it isn't working...
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10-27-2005, 11:03 AM | #7 |
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John, All lugers made after late 1913 should have had the HO installed as original equipment. The most expensive correction to not holding open, is if the luger has a pre1914 breech block installed, that is not cut for a hold open or a pre1914 frame, not cut out for a HO. TH
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10-27-2005, 11:04 AM | #8 |
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Holdopens were standard after 1913. There are any number of reasons for them not to function properly, John's suggestion is a good one.
--Dwight |
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