Issues with reassembly

[LightWeaponsGuy]

Hello all,

I recently came into the possession of two 1914 DWM produced Lugers and require some input regarding reassembly. One Luger is a standard size while the other is an Artillery Luger. Both were stored in less than ideal conditions which prompted me to field strip and clean them. (Thankfully no major rust or no damage!)

However, I've run into issues during reassembly. On the standard Luger I've noticed that the slide is loose and slides back and forth after I reattach the receiver to the frame and lock the toggle (It does this when the locking bolt and takedown plate are in place, as well as not in place.) I've ensured the coupling link and recoil spring level are properly seated together.

For the Artillery Luger I've notice the same thing but also that when I attempt to lock the toggle back after reattaching the receiver to the frame, it gets hung up/stuck and will not go back to allow me to engage the locking bolt.

I've tried following several YouTube videos and the official manual with no luck. An inspection of both shows no missing or damaged parts so I'm at a bit of a loss... Any help is appreciated!

(I'll see about getting some pictures as well.)

[Doubs]

The first issue sounds like the "S" arm is overriding the main spring hook. Elevate the muzzle a bit, pull the receiver forward until the "S" arm clears the main spring hook. Then gently slide the receiver back and watch for the "S" arm to engage the hook. Replace the side plate, place the muzzle against a soft pad, push the top assembly rearward against the spring pressure and raise the locking block into place.

If the top assembly gets stuck to the rear, it's a good indication that the "S" arm is NOT engaging the main spring hook. If properly engaged, pushing or pulling the top assembly rearward will be against spring pressure.

It is not necessary to retract the toggles in order to rotate the locking block into position. Simply push the muzzle against a soft surface to move everything rearward. For short barrels, I hook my fingers in the trigger guard and place the muzzle against my palm and squeeze.

[Edward Tinker]

Is the Artillery dated 1914?

If it is - it is very uncommon

[LightWeaponsGuy]

Originally Posted by Doubs

The first issue sounds like the "S" arm is overriding the main spring hook. Elevate the muzzle a bit, pull the receiver forward until the "S" arm clears the main spring hook. Then gently slide the receiver back and watch for the "S" arm to engage the hook. Replace the side plate, place the muzzle against a soft pad, push the top assembly rearward against the spring pressure and raise the locking block into place.

If the top assembly gets stuck to the rear, it's a good indication that the "S" arm is NOT engaging the main spring hook. If properly engaged, pushing or pulling the top assembly rearward will be against spring pressure.

It is not necessary to retract the toggles in order to rotate the locking block into position. Simply push the muzzle against a soft surface to move everything rearward. For short barrels, I hook my fingers in the trigger guard and place the muzzle against my palm and squeeze.

I'll definitely give this a shot! Keeping my fingers crossed it works

[LightWeaponsGuy]

Originally Posted by Edward Tinker

Is the Artillery dated 1914?

If it is - it is very uncommon

Just double checked and it is indeed stamped '1914' on the barrel, serial #1373. Unfortunately I do not have the snail magazine for it but was able to find a stock/holster along with it too.

[HerrKaiser]

Pictures of the rig please! The 32 round drums were not issued until later in the war as I recall.

[LightWeaponsGuy]

Originally Posted by HerrKaiser

Pictures of the rig please! The 32 round drums were not issued until later in the war as I recall.

I'll definitely post some once I get them back together No drum with it sadly and don't have the spare cash to get one (even the $500 repo ones...)

[mrerick]

Often, with correct positioning you can engage the "S" hook withe the recoil lever "hooks" properly in the toggle mechanism.

Sometimes, turning the Luger upside down will help you clear the area and position the parts for correct engagement when you turn it back over. Gravity is your friend.

[LightWeaponsGuy]

Originally Posted by Doubs

The first issue sounds like the "S" arm is overriding the main spring hook. Elevate the muzzle a bit, pull the receiver forward until the "S" arm clears the main spring hook. Then gently slide the receiver back and watch for the "S" arm to engage the hook. Replace the side plate, place the muzzle against a soft pad, push the top assembly rearward against the spring pressure and raise the locking block into place.

If the top assembly gets stuck to the rear, it's a good indication that the "S" arm is NOT engaging the main spring hook. If properly engaged, pushing or pulling the top assembly rearward will be against spring pressure.

It is not necessary to retract the toggles in order to rotate the locking block into position. Simply push the muzzle against a soft surface to move everything rearward. For short barrels, I hook my fingers in the trigger guard and place the muzzle against my palm and squeeze.

Your trick work perfectly! I'm glad to have them all back together again Now to hopefully get some good photos and post them here.

[LightWeaponsGuy]

Originally Posted by mrerick

Often, with correct positioning you can engage the "S" hook withe the recoil lever "hooks" properly in the toggle mechanism.

Sometimes, turning the Luger upside down will help you clear the area and position the parts for correct engagement when you turn it back over. Gravity is your friend.

I'm definitely slowly learn the reassembly gymnastics one has to do with the Luger Oddly though I find them easier to deal with in terms of cleaning and disassembly than most modern handguns.

[Fla.Mallard]

Originally Posted by LightWeaponsGuy

Oddly though I find them easier to deal with in terms of cleaning and disassembly than most modern handguns.

They aren't as easy as a Glock or Sig but after watching one video, I found that I can strip and re-assemble a Luger with little or no difficulty.