Luger Gunmith Recommendation?

Comanche1952 · 08-07-2017, 12:59 PM

I have two Lugers. One is 9mm military dated 1918 and the other is .30 Luger from 1920's (seller said).

The 9mm version has been nicely refinished, but the trigger pull could be better.

The .30 Luger functions wonderfully, but has a good deal of wear to the finish.

Can anyone recommend a good Luger gunsmith who can do action and finish work, please?

DonVoigt · 08-07-2017, 03:28 PM

That would be two different people.
See lugerdoc on these boards for trigger work; but unless it is really, really bad- just leave it alone.

I don't recommend re-finishing a luger, a picture of the condition would be good to see.
You may be better off to just buy an original finish .30, depending on what model you have, then sell yours. A good rust blue is not cheap.

Comanche1952 · 08-07-2017, 04:05 PM

I've noticed that the 9mm has a "better" trigger pull with some ammo. I attributed that to the OAL of the round and bullet profile. 115 FMJ always seemed to work pretty well. When I tried some other profiles - heavier FMJ or various TC bullets, my impression was that the toggle was not locking completely. Some rounds would not fire at all - toggle was out of battery. Some - perhaps with toggle slightly out of battery - would fire, but with very stiff trigger pull.

I had an epiphany after reading a comment by a Luger Forum member - no one would willingly take an old Luger into a gunfight. So messing around with "more lethal" bullets had little point. I stick to 115 or 124 FMJ now.

Still the 9mm doesn't have the trigger pull that the .30 has. I guess the analogy would be an old, GI .45 1911 isn't going to be the same as a civilian version of the same pistol.

You are probably right - not worth putting an expensive rust blue on the .30; I got it to shoot, not to show off.

Thanks,
Comanche

DonVoigt · 08-07-2017, 07:13 PM

You have another problem other than the trigger if the toggle was "out of battery".
Weak main spring, dirty chamber, short headspace?
The OAL or type bullet should make no difference at all to the trigger pull.

Right on the .30, enjoy it.

Comanche1952 · 08-15-2017, 04:32 PM

I isolated the 9mm trigger pull problem. I shot both Lugers and cleaned them. I noticed that the end of the trigger lever that engages the trigger bar plunger on the 9mm appeared to have been altered by someone before I got it. Certainly, that end of the 9mm lever was shorter than the .30 lever. Thus it takes more pressure to get the trigger lever to activate the trigger bar on the 9mm than on the .30. I have a new trigger lever on the way.

08-07-2017, 12:59 PM	#1
Comanche1952 User Join Date: Oct 2016 Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 4 Posts	Luger Gunmith Recommendation? I have two Lugers. One is 9mm military dated 1918 and the other is .30 Luger from 1920's (seller said). The 9mm version has been nicely refinished, but the trigger pull could be better. The .30 Luger functions wonderfully, but has a good deal of wear to the finish. Can anyone recommend a good Luger gunsmith who can do action and finish work, please?

08-07-2017, 03:28 PM	#2
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,678 Thanks: 1,441 Thanked 4,348 Times in 2,038 Posts	That would be two different people. See lugerdoc on these boards for trigger work; but unless it is really, really bad- just leave it alone. I don't recommend re-finishing a luger, a picture of the condition would be good to see. You may be better off to just buy an original finish .30, depending on what model you have, then sell yours. A good rust blue is not cheap. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

08-07-2017, 07:13 PM	#4
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,678 Thanks: 1,441 Thanked 4,348 Times in 2,038 Posts	You have another problem other than the trigger if the toggle was "out of battery". Weak main spring, dirty chamber, short headspace? The OAL or type bullet should make no difference at all to the trigger pull. Right on the .30, enjoy it. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

08-07-2017, 04:05 PM	#3
Comanche1952 User Join Date: Oct 2016 Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 4 Posts	I've noticed that the 9mm has a "better" trigger pull with some ammo. I attributed that to the OAL of the round and bullet profile. 115 FMJ always seemed to work pretty well. When I tried some other profiles - heavier FMJ or various TC bullets, my impression was that the toggle was not locking completely. Some rounds would not fire at all - toggle was out of battery. Some - perhaps with toggle slightly out of battery - would fire, but with very stiff trigger pull. I had an epiphany after reading a comment by a Luger Forum member - no one would willingly take an old Luger into a gunfight. So messing around with "more lethal" bullets had little point. I stick to 115 or 124 FMJ now. Still the 9mm doesn't have the trigger pull that the .30 has. I guess the analogy would be an old, GI .45 1911 isn't going to be the same as a civilian version of the same pistol. You are probably right - not worth putting an expensive rust blue on the .30; I got it to shoot, not to show off. Thanks, Comanche

08-15-2017, 04:32 PM	#5
Comanche1952 User Join Date: Oct 2016 Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 4 Posts	I isolated the 9mm trigger pull problem. I shot both Lugers and cleaned them. I noticed that the end of the trigger lever that engages the trigger bar plunger on the 9mm appeared to have been altered by someone before I got it. Certainly, that end of the 9mm lever was shorter than the .30 lever. Thus it takes more pressure to get the trigger lever to activate the trigger bar on the 9mm than on the .30. I have a new trigger lever on the way.