Ejector Breakage

biggray · 10-31-2013, 12:29 PM

Hello All. Does anyone know what causes the ejector to break in a luger? My shooter luger that has thousands of rounds through it has had three ejectors break in the last year. The first was very pitted and lasted for years. The second was a repro and lasted a little more than 200 rounds. The third was from a reblued s/42 1936 upper that a friend parted out. It lasted a little more than 600 rounds. My load is on the lite side, 5 grains Unique and Lee 124 lrn. This load functioned the luger just fine but doesn't have enough power to activate the holdopen on most other 9's such as the p38 or hi-power. I'm thinking my recoil spring maybe to weak after all this time. Anyone have any other ideas? I don't remember where the first one broke but the last two broke about 1/8 inch behind the blade. I've been using this luger for 8-10 years and shooting 1000-1500 rounds a year. Thanks for any help. Bill

alanint · 10-31-2013, 01:21 PM

If it is a parts gun, there may be a clearance issue between the ejector and the breech block. Otherwise, as you mentioned, I would look at the mainspring.

John Sabato · 10-31-2013, 02:13 PM

The Ejector is really a "hardened" part and a spring to boot. There is no telling how many times your original and third broken ejector was pounded before they failed because you didn't possess them for their whole lifetime.

The reproduction ejector (#2) I think broke simply because it may have been an inferior quality.
With the breechblock removed, does the ejector move easily through the slot it is installed in? or is there any noticible friction with the slot?

Use some fine emery cloth to polish the sides of the ejector that could be rubbing the receiver when in use. Also polish the mating surfaces on the frame... that may help.

Once you have done that carefully "feel" the relationship between the ejector and the breechblock as the breechblock moves forward and backward in the receiver... any roughness or sticking there? POLISH POLISH POLISH...

This part takes a beating for a living, making it's life a little easier by polishing certainly can't hurt. No matter how hard you prepare for a beating, eventually you will go down after so much pounding... keep an extra or two on hand for your shooter.

Lugerdoc · 11-02-2013, 06:22 AM

Steve, I believe that John S. is on the right track. Even original ejectors from another PO8 may require fitting to move smoothly in your luger. I've most often found that they need fitting on the upper edge from front to rear, and sometimes at the very front, so that they can return to their "at rest" position. TH

10-31-2013, 12:29 PM	#1
biggray New User Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 4 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ejector Breakage Hello All. Does anyone know what causes the ejector to break in a luger? My shooter luger that has thousands of rounds through it has had three ejectors break in the last year. The first was very pitted and lasted for years. The second was a repro and lasted a little more than 200 rounds. The third was from a reblued s/42 1936 upper that a friend parted out. It lasted a little more than 600 rounds. My load is on the lite side, 5 grains Unique and Lee 124 lrn. This load functioned the luger just fine but doesn't have enough power to activate the holdopen on most other 9's such as the p38 or hi-power. I'm thinking my recoil spring maybe to weak after all this time. Anyone have any other ideas? I don't remember where the first one broke but the last two broke about 1/8 inch behind the blade. I've been using this luger for 8-10 years and shooting 1000-1500 rounds a year. Thanks for any help. Bill

10-31-2013, 02:13 PM	#3
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,153 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	The Ejector is really a "hardened" part and a spring to boot. There is no telling how many times your original and third broken ejector was pounded before they failed because you didn't possess them for their whole lifetime. The reproduction ejector (#2) I think broke simply because it may have been an inferior quality. With the breechblock removed, does the ejector move easily through the slot it is installed in? or is there any noticible friction with the slot? Use some fine emery cloth to polish the sides of the ejector that could be rubbing the receiver when in use. Also polish the mating surfaces on the frame... that may help. Once you have done that carefully "feel" the relationship between the ejector and the breechblock as the breechblock moves forward and backward in the receiver... any roughness or sticking there? POLISH POLISH POLISH... This part takes a beating for a living, making it's life a little easier by polishing certainly can't hurt. No matter how hard you prepare for a beating, eventually you will go down after so much pounding... keep an extra or two on hand for your shooter. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

11-02-2013, 06:22 AM	#4
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	Steve, I believe that John S. is on the right track. Even original ejectors from another PO8 may require fitting to move smoothly in your luger. I've most often found that they need fitting on the upper edge from front to rear, and sometimes at the very front, so that they can return to their "at rest" position. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

10-31-2013, 01:21 PM	#2
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	If it is a parts gun, there may be a clearance issue between the ejector and the breech block. Otherwise, as you mentioned, I would look at the mainspring.