Newbie - '36 Military interest.

Zorba · 03-06-2013, 02:13 PM

Yet another newbie here - I've been doing a LOT of lurking and studying. I'm interested in eventually acquiring a Nazi era military luger - possibly a 1936 as that was a banner year in history as well as for my family. Seems that '37 was a transition year from what I read? What in particular should I know/look for in a '36? Or would I really be better off with a later one? '36 seems to be fairly rare.

Answers to my stupid questions would be much appreciated! I'm thinking of spending around $2K for a "high grade shooter" or a "lower grade collectible" - but either way I do want to be able to (occasionally) shoot it. When my wife sees it, she'll want to shoot it too! Love that gal!

mrerick · 03-06-2013, 04:56 PM

Welcome to the forum.

Put a WTB ad here... You may find a member with one available.

I think a shooter should top out at about $1000 to $1100... For $2000 you should be able to get a collectable 1936 in very nice condition. But, you wouldn't want to be shooting that...

So, look for a shooter. Save your money and reduce your risk.

Marc

DavidJayUden · 03-06-2013, 09:57 PM

I like your taste in Lugers. 1936, one of the last years for rust bluing and strawed parts, old fashioned fit and finish. But probably more sound shooters than the WW1 guns.
My 4" shooter is a 1936, and although it has a couple of mismatched or un-numbered parts inside, it looks good and shoots like a Luger should.
Good choice!
It may take you a while to find that exact year, but they are around and not really more, or less, affordable than the other years. And an equally good candidate may come along in the interim.
dju
PS: What's the scoop on the profile photo?

Zorba · 03-07-2013, 01:10 AM

Thanx for the welcome and the information. I've been researching and learning (and lurking here) as I research everything to death before I make a move/purchase/get involved/etc/whatever. This is a fascinating subject - and there seems to be a huge amount of high-grade knowledge on this forum.

The profile picture was taken on a cruise my wife and I were on. I have a slightly different take on "formal night" than most guys!

Another newbie question: What does the term "frosting" mean in reference to bore condition? I might be able to make some stupid assumptions, but I'd rather just ask!

DavidJayUden · 03-07-2013, 05:52 AM

I'd describe it as a fuzzy surface condition in the barrel, be it erosion or corrosion, that covers the metal. Frosting is not serious enough to effect accuracy and should clear up after shooting some jacketed bullets, and is minor enough to clear up without leaving pitting.
Please note that it is at least my experience that most Luger barrels, be they frosted, pitted, or clean, seem to shoot just fine, at least as good as most old shooters can shoot them. Unless it makes sideways holes, worry more about feeding, extraction, etc.
dju

Douglas Jr. · 03-07-2013, 07:32 PM

Welcome to the forum.
You're doing just right, by joining this board and asking EVERYTHING.
There are a lot of good people here that have no reservations in sharing their knowledge.
Besides that, consider to purchase some books. "Luger university" can be expensive if you are not keen to "study".
Douglas

Zorba · 03-07-2013, 09:54 PM

Yep - already have one book coming, don't recall its title at the moment.

03-06-2013, 02:13 PM	#1
Zorba User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Merritt Island, Fl Posts: 951 Thanks: 776 Thanked 526 Times in 289 Posts	Newbie - '36 Military interest. Yet another newbie here - I've been doing a LOT of lurking and studying. I'm interested in eventually acquiring a Nazi era military luger - possibly a 1936 as that was a banner year in history as well as for my family. Seems that '37 was a transition year from what I read? What in particular should I know/look for in a '36? Or would I really be better off with a later one? '36 seems to be fairly rare. Answers to my stupid questions would be much appreciated! I'm thinking of spending around $2K for a "high grade shooter" or a "lower grade collectible" - but either way I do want to be able to (occasionally) shoot it. When my wife sees it, she'll want to shoot it too! Love that gal!

03-06-2013, 04:56 PM	#2
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,900 Thanks: 1,372 Thanked 3,094 Times in 1,503 Posts	Welcome to the forum. Put a WTB ad here... You may find a member with one available. I think a shooter should top out at about $1000 to $1100... For $2000 you should be able to get a collectable 1936 in very nice condition. But, you wouldn't want to be shooting that... So, look for a shooter. Save your money and reduce your risk. Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

03-06-2013, 09:57 PM	#3
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	I like your taste in Lugers. 1936, one of the last years for rust bluing and strawed parts, old fashioned fit and finish. But probably more sound shooters than the WW1 guns. My 4" shooter is a 1936, and although it has a couple of mismatched or un-numbered parts inside, it looks good and shoots like a Luger should. Good choice! It may take you a while to find that exact year, but they are around and not really more, or less, affordable than the other years. And an equally good candidate may come along in the interim. dju PS: What's the scoop on the profile photo?

03-07-2013, 01:10 AM	#4
Zorba User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Merritt Island, Fl Posts: 951 Thanks: 776 Thanked 526 Times in 289 Posts	Thanx for the welcome and the information. I've been researching and learning (and lurking here) as I research everything to death before I make a move/purchase/get involved/etc/whatever. This is a fascinating subject - and there seems to be a huge amount of high-grade knowledge on this forum. The profile picture was taken on a cruise my wife and I were on. I have a slightly different take on "formal night" than most guys! Another newbie question: What does the term "frosting" mean in reference to bore condition? I might be able to make some stupid assumptions, but I'd rather just ask!

03-07-2013, 05:52 AM	#5
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	I'd describe it as a fuzzy surface condition in the barrel, be it erosion or corrosion, that covers the metal. Frosting is not serious enough to effect accuracy and should clear up after shooting some jacketed bullets, and is minor enough to clear up without leaving pitting. Please note that it is at least my experience that most Luger barrels, be they frosted, pitted, or clean, seem to shoot just fine, at least as good as most old shooters can shoot them. Unless it makes sideways holes, worry more about feeding, extraction, etc. dju

03-07-2013, 07:32 PM	#6
Douglas Jr. User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: South America Posts: 948 Thanks: 598 Thanked 584 Times in 254 Posts	Welcome to the forum. You're doing just right, by joining this board and asking EVERYTHING. There are a lot of good people here that have no reservations in sharing their knowledge. Besides that, consider to purchase some books. "Luger university" can be expensive if you are not keen to "study". Douglas

03-07-2013, 09:54 PM	#7
Zorba User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Merritt Island, Fl Posts: 951 Thanks: 776 Thanked 526 Times in 289 Posts	Yep - already have one book coming, don't recall its title at the moment.