Ogiginal vs re-blue

lrb1200 · 11-07-2021, 11:29 AM

In the Luger world, I'm still green, but learning.

Is there any help you can offer as to points to look at
to distinguish a salt blued Mauser as original from a re-blue?

Norme · 11-07-2021, 11:57 AM

Hi lrb,
Well, you won't find halos on a salt blued Luger but there are two indicators you could look for, but you need to field strip the gun. They are:
1/ The L shaped link inside the side-plate should be "in the white" (unblued). This is a very difficult part to remove and even harder to replace, most refinishers don't bother.
2/ The same applies to the S shaped rear connector link that dangles below the rear toggle.
Regards, Norm

Edward Tinker · 11-07-2021, 01:03 PM

Good points Norm, I'd say that I hadn't thought of that. I do look for other signs of a reblue.
To reblue a gun you have to do what?
Smooth is over, ensure all the previous bluing is gone (means either manually strip or chemically, usually manual is also done). Once the gun is stripped, then it has to be smoothed, but not too much, too much sand paper and too fine will make it shine like Rudolph's nose.
Then you blue it - to get it to be right, you have to 'scrape' off the scales (rust), not once but numerous times. Everytime you scrape off, you are losing metal off of the markings, edges, etc.

I look for weak markings - be advised that sometimes markings are not stamped as hard as others, or the metal is a bit too hard.
In the left side 'ear' of the rear toggle, it should still show swirls of working / making it. When its too smooth, its a sign.
The edges of different parts will still be 'sharp'.
The numbers on the barrel and markings is not stamped as hard - look at that.
The bluing should be reasonably the same color, different parts blue different - so if darker and lighter, keep that in mind, although there are some times a different color, from the factory - plum on the receiver happens in later lugers.

ETC....

11-07-2021, 11:29 AM	#1
lrb1200 User Join Date: Nov 2020 Location: Chicago Burbs Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 9 Times in 4 Posts	Ogiginal vs re-blue In the Luger world, I'm still green, but learning. Is there any help you can offer as to points to look at to distinguish a salt blued Mauser as original from a re-blue?

11-07-2021, 11:57 AM	#2
Norme Always A Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,417 Thanks: 226 Thanked 2,603 Times in 933 Posts	Hi lrb, Well, you won't find halos on a salt blued Luger but there are two indicators you could look for, but you need to field strip the gun. They are: 1/ The L shaped link inside the side-plate should be "in the white" (unblued). This is a very difficult part to remove and even harder to replace, most refinishers don't bother. 2/ The same applies to the S shaped rear connector link that dangles below the rear toggle. Regards, Norm Attached Thumbnails

11-07-2021, 01:03 PM	#3
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,933 Thanks: 2,032 Thanked 4,530 Times in 2,092 Posts	Good points Norm, I'd say that I hadn't thought of that. I do look for other signs of a reblue. To reblue a gun you have to do what? Smooth is over, ensure all the previous bluing is gone (means either manually strip or chemically, usually manual is also done). Once the gun is stripped, then it has to be smoothed, but not too much, too much sand paper and too fine will make it shine like Rudolph's nose. Then you blue it - to get it to be right, you have to 'scrape' off the scales (rust), not once but numerous times. Everytime you scrape off, you are losing metal off of the markings, edges, etc. I look for weak markings - be advised that sometimes markings are not stamped as hard as others, or the metal is a bit too hard. In the left side 'ear' of the rear toggle, it should still show swirls of working / making it. When its too smooth, its a sign. The edges of different parts will still be 'sharp'. The numbers on the barrel and markings is not stamped as hard - look at that. The bluing should be reasonably the same color, different parts blue different - so if darker and lighter, keep that in mind, although there are some times a different color, from the factory - plum on the receiver happens in later lugers. ETC....