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01-03-2018, 03:06 PM | #1 |
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1900 luger toggle lock repair
I have read where the lock piece in the frame is dove tailed in and can be driven out like a dove tailed sight. Is this correct? I also read where that piece is 'soldered in place. So, can a capable DIY guy (me) do the repair?
Thank you for your replies.
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01-03-2018, 04:54 PM | #2 |
Lifer
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It's not a dovetail, it's a T-slot.
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01-04-2018, 04:33 PM | #3 |
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But is the repair doable for DIY guy? Is it soldered in place?
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01-05-2018, 03:40 AM | #4 |
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Silver soldered... You'd heat the joint to free the part, I wouldn't go driving on it.
Many use the process, but all are not equal. If you're good at welding, brazing, and lead soldering, you can already probably do it, and could succeed, providing the replacement part is good and fits well. The toggle lock is not absolutely necessary for function. The soldering process may well damage the finish in that area.
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01-05-2018, 08:30 AM | #5 |
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Maybe and yes. Depends on the guy.
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01-05-2018, 09:23 AM | #6 |
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Well,
I would not do it. The old solder will be the high temp type, requiring at least orange heat to melt. I would not want to heat a spot, might warp, will require re-finish. If the missing latch bothers you, I would suggest you sell the offending pistol and buy one with an intact latch. JMHO. As said before, it is not needed for function. I have a very nice and scarce 1900 variant with a broken latch; I would never consider repairing it- as is often said: "it's part of the history".
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01-05-2018, 10:47 AM | #7 |
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Maj.Tom et al, I do have new repros of the frame part of the toggle lock in stock @$50 + $5 S&H, that I've installed without silver sodering into the tapered slot of the M1900 frame and have had no problems. It's about like installing a tight front sight blade. Not sure if that is how it was done at the factory and I'm sure that sodering it in would be nice, but not essential. TH
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