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01-19-2012, 01:12 AM | #1 |
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Lead on a DWM 1914 Military Luger
I have a lead on a Luger and wanted to hear some thoughts. The seller is asking $850. It's a DWM 1914 Military (chamber dated 1917), all numbers match except the trigger plate and magazine. Finish is in very good condition except for wear on trigger plate. The bore is described as very good with no rust. There is a chip out of the left grip behind the safety; this seems to be a common DWM flaw? Comes with an original WWI holster with a damaged strap, original combo tool and one reproduction magazine. Functions perfectly. What do you guys think? I'm going to look at it tomorrow. Thanks!
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01-19-2012, 08:59 AM | #2 |
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Woody:
You don't specify if you want it for shooting, collecting, investing, etc. I can't see a huge problem with it at that price. It is mismatched and not as collectable as if the side plate matched, but then again $850 is appropriate. And by the way, the chip in the left grip panel is not a DWM flaw, but instead an owner flaw. Careless removal is what causes it. dju |
01-19-2012, 09:37 AM | #3 |
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I want it because it is something that I have always wanted, and I will shoot it occasionally. Does someone do repairs on the holsters? Thanks!
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01-19-2012, 10:15 AM | #4 |
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Yes, Forum member Jerry Burney is simply the best holster restorer in the business. Look for him under "Lugerholsterrepair".
The price is a good one, considering that the finish appears original and you are also getting an original, unmessed with holster and loading tool. You can even advertise for a correctly numbered sideplate here. You might get lucky and find a correct number. |
01-19-2012, 12:20 PM | #5 |
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Should you buy it, and want to have the left grip repaired, it can be done at a reasonable price. This is probably better to do than buying modern replacement grips. In any case, try and preserve the original grips.
If the pistol is in otherwise good shape, I think it's worth it. Marc
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01-19-2012, 02:45 PM | #6 |
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Who does the grip repair? That sounds promising! I'm off to go see it now. Thanks!
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01-19-2012, 03:34 PM | #7 |
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If you've always wanted one, I say go for it! You only live once!
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01-19-2012, 05:52 PM | #8 |
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Look up Hugh Clark for grip work. He's on this forum.
dju |
01-19-2012, 06:14 PM | #9 |
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Good advice above. Jerry and Hugh are the best. Especially if you want the repairs done correctly. Bill
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01-19-2012, 06:35 PM | #10 |
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Jim.. the chip in the left grip panel is not a DWM flaw, but instead an owner flaw. Careless removal is what causes it.
As David says..but another reason is shooting old original grips. I had it happen while shooting an Artillery Luger. Chip got knocked out and I couldn't find it at the range. Learnt me a lesson..
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01-19-2012, 06:53 PM | #11 |
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Well I came home with the DWM. I have to say that I like it a lot! He even threw in a set of new reproduction grips! The gentleman who sold it had me over to his house and went over field stripping and gave me his thoughts on Lugers in general. He has others that were very cool! I hope to see him again. What's the best way to post for possibly obtaining a correct trigger plate? Is it a long shot at best in finding one that matches?
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01-19-2012, 07:35 PM | #12 |
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Congratulations!!
Place and ad here in the "Wants" section. Make sure to mention that it is for a 1917 dated DWM and you will need to include the last two digits of the serial number on the balance of the gun. |
01-19-2012, 07:41 PM | #13 |
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Also search sites like Gunbroker, AuctionArms, etc.
Seems like our own Zim had a bunch of side plates listed for sale, so dig thru the for sale section. And try our LugerDoc, as he has lots of goodies. There are lots of good videos on youtube showing disassembly/reassembly if you get stuck. dju |
01-19-2012, 10:00 PM | #14 |
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Thank you! I'm very excited! Is there a difference in side plates between the manufacturers?
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01-25-2012, 12:43 PM | #15 |
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WS, The main difference in side plates is markings (Simson, Erfurt & most KH) will be "proofed" and the number die set used by each manufacturer will differ. Also pre mid-1937 PO8s will be rust blued, vise salt dip after that. TH
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