Fix It Or Part It Out? Long

kenfromalaska · 07-25-2003, 12:53 AM

Ya might remember that last year I posted about my adventures with a 1916 Erfurt, it was badly barreled in 7.65 and with the help of some guys here pointing me in the right direction, like Thor, I got it rebarreled by Hugh Clark to 9mm. Other than the barrel it was all matching,virtually no finish left, and the trigger guard was flattened like it had been used to bang someone over the head with.

Shot real nice though and my plan was to have it engraved and then restored. Well as usual, every other project got in my way, so I tossed it into my truck and used it as a truck gun.

I think I may have posted on this, I was shooting it one day and the breech block blew apart. So it went into a container where it has sat while I half a**ed chased some breech blocks across e bay to no sucess.

I have been watching parts skyrocket there..

Anyway I pulled it out the other day and looked at it and decided to rip it apart, so I did (and didnt break anyhting!)I had already started to polish and draw file the barrel (import marks gone!) and start getting some of the pits out (gently) and the flattened trigger guard bugged me.... so tonight, got out the torch, shoved a Winchester barrel in the trigger guard, got a hammer and voila, trigger guard returned to normal!

Now Im sitting here looking at it..I really am in the mood for a shooter Luger and was even thinking of getting a Stainless one, but I just like that 1916 date even though its a wreck..I already got $150 into a barrel and god knows how much a breech block will cost, but I still like that 1916 date!! Then of course the cost of restoration etc...

So the issue is...do I part it out?...based on the numbers I see on ebay I probably can realize about $500 without the frame... or do I restore this one...

Any thoughts appreciated...

lugerholsterrepair · 07-25-2003, 01:15 AM

Ken, Yes, I remember your problem from a past post.

I have always been of the opinion that a guy should be able to do what ever he wants with his property but there are quite a few pistols being parted out for the $$$ and I wonder about the wisdom of this practice. I guess it makes the ones that are left more valuble ...

Have you tried Tom Heller for a breech block? He is a Forum member that specializes in parts and he might have what you need.

Probably with the condition you describe it might bring less than you anticipate and would still be eligible to be repaired and used as that coveted shooter. Patience is needed and I would bet you will eventually find what you are looking for at an affordable price...Jerry Burney

kenfromalaska · 07-25-2003, 01:52 AM

My other concern is that if the breech block blew, are there other parts that are gonna fail?..not that I am gonna shoot the heck out of it, but I would hate to spend the money and time and just have it go bye bye again...

Its the date....just like the fact that it says 1916 on it.....!

ViggoG · 07-25-2003, 02:15 AM

Ken,
It probably deserves Heavy Thought as to whether other parts were damaged to a "Pre- Failure Condition" !!
Not only could it be Dangerous to You But If The remains are parted out ?
How Many Dangerous Parts Are Passed On To Some Random Person ?
My Instincts Say; This Gun Should Be Repaired and "Proof Tested" By "A Superior Gunsmith" and None Less !!
Just my opinion "FWIW".

ViggoG

kenfromalaska · 07-26-2003, 10:07 PM

OK, I think I have decided!

Having so many projects on the line, and a wife who watches me like a hawk I am gonna do the following:

1. Get the parts strawed that need to be strawed. TLSS does that.
2. Get the new parts..I need block, rear and middle toggle ins as well as the pin that goes down through the toggle.
3. Finish drawfiling and -polishing it out myself and then drop it into our blue tank..I think I will do it in a combo of Polish and bead blasted. Our blue comes out very black. By the way, Ive seen the meltdown Luegers posted before and trust me, Im staying away for the wheel
4. Fire blue the proper parts.

Shoot it and hope it dont break

..Even if its not perfect looking I will have the pride of doing it myself.

By the way more opinions needed. My side plate, which is numbered is so heavily pitted that to get the pits out the number goes..should I get the number rengraved or just leave it blank?

lugerholsterrepair · 07-27-2003, 12:53 AM

Ken, You are making a logical choice...GOOD FOR YOU, I THINK YOU WILL ENJOY THE PROJECT. Why worry about the # when it's a shooter and you know the sideplate belongs to that pistol. Just more expense...Jerry Burney

kenfromalaska · 07-27-2003, 02:32 AM

Ok here is a beginning pic..I have indicated where I intend to blast, the rest will be polished after I get oout the pitting. I thibnk the front and back strap should be blasted all the way up...the only part of the frame I think I will polish are the rails and the large part over the safety bar.....the extension will be polished as will the toggle etc...

I am looking for a "two toner", you can already see the contrast starting...

Do you guys think the trigger plate would look better blasted? How abouut the end of the barrel..too pimpy??

Heres a tip...old rifle barrels work great for ironing out bent trigger guards...I even got most of the dings out..

I fire blued the pins today using motor oli and they came out darker thatn I thought....some one told me to use sewing machine oil...any thoughts...I can get whale oil if I need

What about fire bluing the extractor as long as it doesnt get to hot...any thoughts?

saxman · 07-29-2003, 12:12 AM

Ken; Care to elaborate on that fire-blueing process? I think you're doing the right thing by keeping it and fixing it up.

kenfromalaska · 07-29-2003, 03:11 AM

Fire blue? Ya mean heating it up with a propane torch and plunging into oil...not very scientific, I should actually do it with an oven and a thermometer to do it right....

It was fun to experiment though..

And now to make it worse, my engraver friend (guild engraver ) came in..looked at the beginnings and he has visions of oak leaves and other germanic motifs in his head...

Like oak leaves and acorns deep cut up front and backstrap...he did my hi power with scroll and he knows what he is doing...

Of course, now he is talking about me slowly removing ALL the pits...and he wants a 400 finish on the surfaces to be engraved...Of course nothings happening till I gets me a breech block

lugerholsterrepair · 07-29-2003, 03:21 AM

Ken, Good start! Be carefull about the torch, You can burn steel and make it worthless although you sound like you know what you are about...

The two tone in the areas you mentioned will look great.

The side plate might look odd bead blasted, It leaves a textured finish and to keep it looking original a softer finish might look better.

The engraving sounds really nice if you have someone handy that could do a good job without investing too much.....This would be the ideal pistol to add a trick or two to.

Still having no luck with the breech block? What did Tom Heller say? Jerry Burney

saxman · 07-29-2003, 05:03 AM

Yes, the side plate should match the rest of the finish on the side - it would stick out like a sore thumb otherwise. I don't think he's going to burn up any 'stahl' with a propane torch, but it is possible to take the temper out of springs at propane temperatures. I think one secret to fire blue is the polishing before heating. It must be fairly easy to do, because there are a lot of fire-blued springs around for different purposes. I saw some Colt revolvers at a show - gold-plated with fire-blued screws - very beautiful.
Ken; on the trigger plate, you might try wet/dry paper on sanding blocks to maintain the flat surfaces, and roll the paper on a drill bit or similar object for the radiused sides around the lever housing. Very difficult to keep the factory look to a plate that has to be de-pitted, and a rounded, 'soft' plate really looks bad. I have a trigger plate that someone down the line tried to de-pit with a drill press (I think) with some kind of burr in it. It looked so bad that I put a mismatched plate on the gun with original finish that luckily matched my Luger. It's an Erfurt on a DWM, but it's just a shooter. If it wasn't for the Erfurt inspector's stamp and the wrong number, you'd think it was the original. Snapped in with no fitting at all. Good luck on your project, and keep us informed.

Art · 07-29-2003, 05:20 AM

Fire blue is easy! Do it in kitchen oven roaster oven----or easiest way is: Clean part of all oil and crud with acetone. Do not touch with oily fingers afterward. Hold part with needle nose pliers and heat with small propane torch. Keep part moveing and turning just beyond tip flame to distribute heat evenly as possible. Straw color will appear first then darker straw and finaly start to turn purple. Remove part from heat briefly occasionally since color is a bit behind heat(temp) being applied. After purple the bright blue(fire blue occurs). Go slow in final stage. Once fire blue color occurs---just lay the part on the vise or some metal surface and let it cool. when oil is applied after cooling the color will be a bit darker. If you continue to heat the part it will finally turn gray/bright and stay that way. You can continue to heat red hot but straw or blue will not reoccur unless you repolish the part. Final color of fire blue and straw depend on the polish job. Don't be afraid to do this----it will not damage the part(unless you heat it red hot) even then you will not ruin a grip screw. I used ovens for years to straw and fire blue parts. Past several years I have strawed and fire blued perhaps 200 parts just using the little ole propane torch. Practice on small pieces of scrap metal or any small gun part. Remember the poish job makes the difference. Notice that a trigger for instance still has some tool or polish marks. If the part is not pitted---some 220 wet or dry held around a small metal block to maintain sharp edges will usually clean up the part and still leave a hint of polish marks. Take care to leave these marks in same direction as original. Final polish with crocus cloth will brighten metal but still retain the finish marks. A fine carding wheel as used in rust bluing will clean up back side of parts and brighten appropriately. It will not be original looking-----but if you want some pretty straw----put a safety lever on the buffer and make it mirror bright. I could go into temperatures of each color etc---but that is covered in a chart somewhere in this forum. You will not care about the temp----it is color you want. Now my secret is out and my straw business of 20 years is gone!!! Of course there is nitre process etc. Don't matter color comes out same---just practice. Hold parts with smallest needle nose pliers you have then with just the tip and on very tip of a non exposed(when assembled)part. Grip screws work best when pliers held(carefully) arround the threads and heat from the bottom of the screw.

kenfromalaska · 07-29-2003, 06:11 AM

<blockquote>quote:<hr />The side plate might look odd bead blasted, It leaves a textured finish and to keep it looking original a softer finish might look better.
<hr /></blockquote>Well that issue is now settled, if it gets engraved, it gets polished...

<blockquote>quote:<hr />The engraving sounds really nice if you have someone handy that could do a good job without investing too much.....This would be the ideal pistol to add a trick or two to.
<hr /></blockquote>The best thing is that my freind is a Guild level engraver, actually he is a triple threat in that he is stockmakers guild, engraving guild and the rifle makers guild...he cuts me a MAJOR break on engraving...and hes sort of psyched about doing a Luger...

The hardcest thing is that he wants a 400 grit polish but he can recut proofs and numbers if they get too light...lucky too that there is no pitting on the toggle so the crown will stay crisp...

I wasnt kidding about Oak leaves and acorns, this thing could end up looking like tuetonic nightmare... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> Hes capable of it..

Maybe need some ivory grips too... <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

<blockquote>quote:<hr /> Still having no luck with the breech block? What did Tom Heller say? Jerry Burney
<hr /></blockquote>Tom Heller sent me an email I am waiting to hear back from him...

<blockquote>quote:<hr /> you might try wet/dry paper on sanding blocks to maintain the flat surfaces, and roll the paper on a drill bit or similar object for the radiused sides around the lever housing. Very difficult to keep the factory look to a plate that has to be de-pitted, and a rounded, 'soft' plate really looks bad. <hr /></blockquote>No kidding its real tough, and Im having trouble getting the trigger lever out, any tips?

<blockquote>quote:<hr />It will not be original looking-----but if you want some pretty straw----put a safety lever on the buffer and make it mirror bright. I could go into temperatures of each color etc---but that is covered in a chart somewhere in this forum. You will not care about the temp----it is color you want. Now my secret is out and my straw business of 20 years is gone!! <hr /></blockquote>OK your hired! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

saxman · 08-03-2003, 05:51 PM

Art; Thanks so much for the fire blue and straw tips. I'm sure your business is safe, because it still takes talent and mechanical intuition, which many just do not have, plus, most people don't trust themselves to experiment and learn on their irreplacable Lugers. I have a secret way of doing fake straw and color case hardening, and I'll post some pics of examples the next time I do it. I do this for my own amusement, not on other people's guns, because it involves no heat and is not very durable.

07-25-2003, 12:53 AM	#1
kenfromalaska User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Alaska Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Fix It Or Part It Out? Long Ya might remember that last year I posted about my adventures with a 1916 Erfurt, it was badly barreled in 7.65 and with the help of some guys here pointing me in the right direction, like Thor, I got it rebarreled by Hugh Clark to 9mm. Other than the barrel it was all matching,virtually no finish left, and the trigger guard was flattened like it had been used to bang someone over the head with. Shot real nice though and my plan was to have it engraved and then restored. Well as usual, every other project got in my way, so I tossed it into my truck and used it as a truck gun. I think I may have posted on this, I was shooting it one day and the breech block blew apart. So it went into a container where it has sat while I half a**ed chased some breech blocks across e bay to no sucess. I have been watching parts skyrocket there.. Anyway I pulled it out the other day and looked at it and decided to rip it apart, so I did (and didnt break anyhting!)I had already started to polish and draw file the barrel (import marks gone!) and start getting some of the pits out (gently) and the flattened trigger guard bugged me.... so tonight, got out the torch, shoved a Winchester barrel in the trigger guard, got a hammer and voila, trigger guard returned to normal! Now Im sitting here looking at it..I really am in the mood for a shooter Luger and was even thinking of getting a Stainless one, but I just like that 1916 date even though its a wreck..I already got $150 into a barrel and god knows how much a breech block will cost, but I still like that 1916 date!! Then of course the cost of restoration etc... So the issue is...do I part it out?...based on the numbers I see on ebay I probably can realize about $500 without the frame... or do I restore this one... Any thoughts appreciated...

07-25-2003, 01:15 AM	#2
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,771 Thanks: 4,928 Thanked 3,124 Times in 1,434 Posts	Ken, Yes, I remember your problem from a past post. I have always been of the opinion that a guy should be able to do what ever he wants with his property but there are quite a few pistols being parted out for the $$$ and I wonder about the wisdom of this practice. I guess it makes the ones that are left more valuble ... Have you tried Tom Heller for a breech block? He is a Forum member that specializes in parts and he might have what you need. Probably with the condition you describe it might bring less than you anticipate and would still be eligible to be repaired and used as that coveted shooter. Patience is needed and I would bet you will eventually find what you are looking for at an affordable price...Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

07-27-2003, 12:53 AM	#6
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,771 Thanks: 4,928 Thanked 3,124 Times in 1,434 Posts	Ken, You are making a logical choice...GOOD FOR YOU, I THINK YOU WILL ENJOY THE PROJECT. Why worry about the # when it's a shooter and you know the sideplate belongs to that pistol. Just more expense...Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

07-29-2003, 12:12 AM	#8
saxman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 301 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ken; Care to elaborate on that fire-blueing process? I think you're doing the right thing by keeping it and fixing it up. __________________ You can lead 'em to the water, but you can't make 'em drink.

07-29-2003, 03:21 AM	#10
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,771 Thanks: 4,928 Thanked 3,124 Times in 1,434 Posts	Ken, Good start! Be carefull about the torch, You can burn steel and make it worthless although you sound like you know what you are about... The two tone in the areas you mentioned will look great. The side plate might look odd bead blasted, It leaves a textured finish and to keep it looking original a softer finish might look better. The engraving sounds really nice if you have someone handy that could do a good job without investing too much.....This would be the ideal pistol to add a trick or two to. Still having no luck with the breech block? What did Tom Heller say? Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

07-25-2003, 01:52 AM	#3
kenfromalaska User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Alaska Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	My other concern is that if the breech block blew, are there other parts that are gonna fail?..not that I am gonna shoot the heck out of it, but I would hate to spend the money and time and just have it go bye bye again... Its the date....just like the fact that it says 1916 on it.....!

07-25-2003, 02:15 AM	#4
ViggoG RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: South Side Virginia Posts: 534 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Ken, It probably deserves Heavy Thought as to whether other parts were damaged to a "Pre- Failure Condition" !! Not only could it be Dangerous to You But If The remains are parted out ? How Many Dangerous Parts Are Passed On To Some Random Person ? My Instincts Say; This Gun Should Be Repaired and "Proof Tested" By "A Superior Gunsmith" and None Less !! Just my opinion "FWIW". ViggoG

07-26-2003, 10:07 PM	#5
kenfromalaska User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Alaska Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	OK, I think I have decided! Having so many projects on the line, and a wife who watches me like a hawk I am gonna do the following: 1. Get the parts strawed that need to be strawed. TLSS does that. 2. Get the new parts..I need block, rear and middle toggle ins as well as the pin that goes down through the toggle. 3. Finish drawfiling and -polishing it out myself and then drop it into our blue tank..I think I will do it in a combo of Polish and bead blasted. Our blue comes out very black. By the way, Ive seen the meltdown Luegers posted before and trust me, Im staying away for the wheel 4. Fire blue the proper parts. Shoot it and hope it dont break ..Even if its not perfect looking I will have the pride of doing it myself. By the way more opinions needed. My side plate, which is numbered is so heavily pitted that to get the pits out the number goes..should I get the number rengraved or just leave it blank?

07-27-2003, 02:32 AM	#7
kenfromalaska User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Alaska Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ok here is a beginning pic..I have indicated where I intend to blast, the rest will be polished after I get oout the pitting. I thibnk the front and back strap should be blasted all the way up...the only part of the frame I think I will polish are the rails and the large part over the safety bar.....the extension will be polished as will the toggle etc... I am looking for a "two toner", you can already see the contrast starting... Do you guys think the trigger plate would look better blasted? How abouut the end of the barrel..too pimpy?? Heres a tip...old rifle barrels work great for ironing out bent trigger guards...I even got most of the dings out.. I fire blued the pins today using motor oli and they came out darker thatn I thought....some one told me to use sewing machine oil...any thoughts...I can get whale oil if I need What about fire bluing the extractor as long as it doesnt get to hot...any thoughts?

07-29-2003, 03:11 AM	#9
kenfromalaska User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Alaska Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Fire blue? Ya mean heating it up with a propane torch and plunging into oil...not very scientific, I should actually do it with an oven and a thermometer to do it right.... It was fun to experiment though.. And now to make it worse, my engraver friend (guild engraver ) came in..looked at the beginnings and he has visions of oak leaves and other germanic motifs in his head... Like oak leaves and acorns deep cut up front and backstrap...he did my hi power with scroll and he knows what he is doing... Of course, now he is talking about me slowly removing ALL the pits...and he wants a 400 finish on the surfaces to be engraved...Of course nothings happening till I gets me a breech block

07-29-2003, 05:03 AM	#11
saxman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 301 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Yes, the side plate should match the rest of the finish on the side - it would stick out like a sore thumb otherwise. I don't think he's going to burn up any 'stahl' with a propane torch, but it is possible to take the temper out of springs at propane temperatures. I think one secret to fire blue is the polishing before heating. It must be fairly easy to do, because there are a lot of fire-blued springs around for different purposes. I saw some Colt revolvers at a show - gold-plated with fire-blued screws - very beautiful. Ken; on the trigger plate, you might try wet/dry paper on sanding blocks to maintain the flat surfaces, and roll the paper on a drill bit or similar object for the radiused sides around the lever housing. Very difficult to keep the factory look to a plate that has to be de-pitted, and a rounded, 'soft' plate really looks bad. I have a trigger plate that someone down the line tried to de-pit with a drill press (I think) with some kind of burr in it. It looked so bad that I put a mismatched plate on the gun with original finish that luckily matched my Luger. It's an Erfurt on a DWM, but it's just a shooter. If it wasn't for the Erfurt inspector's stamp and the wrong number, you'd think it was the original. Snapped in with no fitting at all. Good luck on your project, and keep us informed. __________________ You can lead 'em to the water, but you can't make 'em drink.

07-29-2003, 05:20 AM	#12
Art User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: missouri Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Fire blue is easy! Do it in kitchen oven roaster oven----or easiest way is: Clean part of all oil and crud with acetone. Do not touch with oily fingers afterward. Hold part with needle nose pliers and heat with small propane torch. Keep part moveing and turning just beyond tip flame to distribute heat evenly as possible. Straw color will appear first then darker straw and finaly start to turn purple. Remove part from heat briefly occasionally since color is a bit behind heat(temp) being applied. After purple the bright blue(fire blue occurs). Go slow in final stage. Once fire blue color occurs---just lay the part on the vise or some metal surface and let it cool. when oil is applied after cooling the color will be a bit darker. If you continue to heat the part it will finally turn gray/bright and stay that way. You can continue to heat red hot but straw or blue will not reoccur unless you repolish the part. Final color of fire blue and straw depend on the polish job. Don't be afraid to do this----it will not damage the part(unless you heat it red hot) even then you will not ruin a grip screw. I used ovens for years to straw and fire blue parts. Past several years I have strawed and fire blued perhaps 200 parts just using the little ole propane torch. Practice on small pieces of scrap metal or any small gun part. Remember the poish job makes the difference. Notice that a trigger for instance still has some tool or polish marks. If the part is not pitted---some 220 wet or dry held around a small metal block to maintain sharp edges will usually clean up the part and still leave a hint of polish marks. Take care to leave these marks in same direction as original. Final polish with crocus cloth will brighten metal but still retain the finish marks. A fine carding wheel as used in rust bluing will clean up back side of parts and brighten appropriately. It will not be original looking-----but if you want some pretty straw----put a safety lever on the buffer and make it mirror bright. I could go into temperatures of each color etc---but that is covered in a chart somewhere in this forum. You will not care about the temp----it is color you want. Now my secret is out and my straw business of 20 years is gone!!! Of course there is nitre process etc. Don't matter color comes out same---just practice. Hold parts with smallest needle nose pliers you have then with just the tip and on very tip of a non exposed(when assembled)part. Grip screws work best when pliers held(carefully) arround the threads and heat from the bottom of the screw.

07-29-2003, 06:11 AM	#13
kenfromalaska User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Alaska Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">The side plate might look odd bead blasted, It leaves a textured finish and to keep it looking original a softer finish might look better. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Well that issue is now settled, if it gets engraved, it gets polished... </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">The engraving sounds really nice if you have someone handy that could do a good job without investing too much.....This would be the ideal pistol to add a trick or two to. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">The best thing is that my freind is a Guild level engraver, actually he is a triple threat in that he is stockmakers guild, engraving guild and the rifle makers guild...he cuts me a MAJOR break on engraving...and hes sort of psyched about doing a Luger... The hardcest thing is that he wants a 400 grit polish but he can recut proofs and numbers if they get too light...lucky too that there is no pitting on the toggle so the crown will stay crisp... I wasnt kidding about Oak leaves and acorns, this thing could end up looking like tuetonic nightmare... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> Hes capable of it.. Maybe need some ivory grips too... <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva"> Still having no luck with the breech block? What did Tom Heller say? Jerry Burney </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Tom Heller sent me an email I am waiting to hear back from him... </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva"> you might try wet/dry paper on sanding blocks to maintain the flat surfaces, and roll the paper on a drill bit or similar object for the radiused sides around the lever housing. Very difficult to keep the factory look to a plate that has to be de-pitted, and a rounded, 'soft' plate really looks bad. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">No kidding its real tough, and Im having trouble getting the trigger lever out, any tips? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">It will not be original looking-----but if you want some pretty straw----put a safety lever on the buffer and make it mirror bright. I could go into temperatures of each color etc---but that is covered in a chart somewhere in this forum. You will not care about the temp----it is color you want. Now my secret is out and my straw business of 20 years is gone!! </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">OK your hired! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

08-03-2003, 05:51 PM	#14
saxman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 301 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Art; Thanks so much for the fire blue and straw tips. I'm sure your business is safe, because it still takes talent and mechanical intuition, which many just do not have, plus, most people don't trust themselves to experiment and learn on their irreplacable Lugers. I have a secret way of doing fake straw and color case hardening, and I'll post some pics of examples the next time I do it. I do this for my own amusement, not on other people's guns, because it involves no heat and is not very durable. __________________ You can lead 'em to the water, but you can't make 'em drink.