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01-23-2004, 10:58 PM | #1 |
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Can someone explain straw to a "rookie"?
In reading about the conditions of various lugers, I always see a statement regarding to "straw" and a percentage of it. Can someone please let me know what is meant by this?
Thanks.
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01-23-2004, 11:23 PM | #2 |
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Straw is that amber/golden color on Luger small parts, taked down lever/safety lever/trigger/ejector and on old models extractors/mag button....it is produced by heat treating the steel.
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02-13-2004, 02:53 AM | #3 |
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OK, How strong is the finish on a strawed part? Can it take light buffing with fine steelwool? How would you go about removing light rust from a strawed part, if an oily cloth doesnt work?
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02-13-2004, 07:38 AM | #4 |
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Adam,
I've used 0000 fine steel wool on my strawed parts and it has not removed the straw yet. I think you'll be OK (as long as you don't go crazy with the steel wool making it a religous habit of doing it a billion times a day). Just lightly buff it with the 0000 steel wool and put a light coat of lubricant on the part. Anybody out there that disagrees please correct me if I'm wrong. <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> Semper-Fi USMC
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02-13-2004, 11:14 AM | #5 |
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Straw can be pretty fragile, I'd be -very- careful with the steel wool. In another thread on the subject Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner gave someone good results, try a search on the topic.
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02-13-2004, 12:24 PM | #6 |
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Sorry gunny, I ver strongly disagree, I would never use steel wool on anything I wanted to protect its investment grade/rating...get out of the stone ages of our grandfathers steel wool and oil and get a small pad of "Big .45 metal cleaner", you can scrub as hard as you want on the finist blued/strawed gun parts, and not a bit of finish will be touched. The very nature of steel wool will scratch, even a very fine amount, but it will scratch..."Big.45" pad will not harm the finist finishes...I think Brownells carrys it, or I sometimes find it at larger gun shows....use the pad, or a small part of it with a little oil or #9. Give it a try
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02-13-2004, 12:56 PM | #7 |
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Dont use steel wool on the straw it will take it off.
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02-13-2004, 01:38 PM | #8 |
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Well.... thanks for the correction! I guess I can't be right about everything. Didn't mean to give bum scoop to anyone, I guess I'm just used to things that have worked for me over the years. I've never tried any of the stuff the other forum members have talked about above, maybe its time I did!! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Thanks for the correction, and apologies to adam for the bad info. Semper-Fi USMC
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02-13-2004, 02:26 PM | #9 |
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USMC, the use of steel wool might appear to be okay on strawing but it will take it off a little at time if you are just easy with it, but eventually you will end up with white steel. Most WWI Lugers that have been used will have tarnished white steel where the strawing used to be. It is a beautiful finish. I have been told it will even fade if placed in strong light for a long time. I do know that the use of CLENZOIL will help preserve it. That is what I use on my own Luger straw parts. I have heard the early DWM Lugers strawing was covered by some kind of whale oil. Now where is a whale when you need one? <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />
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02-13-2004, 04:04 PM | #10 |
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Thor,
Honestly, I have probably never used 0000 steel wool on any of my firearms more than a couple of times. I never let them get that rusty to begin with (I'm a lube finatic)! I know when I bought my first shooter, it had strawed parts that were slightly rusted and steel wool was what I used to remove the surface rust. In my opinion I think if you scrub anything long enough, with no matter what process you use ( steel wool, chemicals, etc.), the finish is going to come off one way or another. I think I'll give the clenzoil a try! Once again thanks to the fellow forum members for the info on the rust removal techniques on what to use and not to use. Semper-Fi USMC
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02-13-2004, 04:29 PM | #11 |
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USMC, So far there has been no mention in this thread of adding a liberal amount of gun oil when using steel wool. You must oil the surface and a bit on the wool itself or it will damage the finish, never use dry steel wool of any caliber on blued or strawed gun parts. Used in conjunction with oil it will remove surface rust and leave the blue unmolested.
I mostly use this techniquen on rusty .22 rifles as I do not let my collector pistols get rusty but it does work. I have to agree with PoliceLuger, I don't know that I would trust it on a collector Luger. Jerry Burney
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02-13-2004, 07:32 PM | #12 |
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"no matter what process you use..."..OK Gunny, one more time....take the finest brand new blued gun, oil or no oil, and with a small piece of the .45 pad, scrub it as hard as you want, it will not affect the finish...come on over and I'll let you try it on one of my new Colt SAA's...in my best president Nixon impression "trust me"...I just add a little of Hoppes #9 as it cuts some of the fouling a bit faster then without it...oh and on rusted guns it will cut the rust, and only if a trace of blue remains, it will leave it untouched.
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02-13-2004, 09:21 PM | #13 |
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I will be sure to get some of the .45 pads. Now, next question, anyone know a easy way to straw small parts effectivly at home without ruining them ( the parts I want to straw are for an old rife not a luger and they are easily replaced so its more for fun than actual asthetic reasons.) I am just curious to learn about strawing.
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02-13-2004, 09:50 PM | #14 |
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Adam, send me your home email address, best communication link for me too use, and I will send you my sure fire formula for strawing, I sent it to about 20 folks here on LF alone...
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02-13-2004, 10:36 PM | #15 |
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Policeluger, Check your PMs. Thanks.
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