Why is it jamming?

[cburd]

Hello, a newby, here. I recently purchased a Luger, with 1936, on the reciever, and the serial #, "O" 3684. Almost all of the other parts have the 84 on them, although, the toggle has "BYF", and 83 on it. As I am a complete Luger "idiot", I am not sure if it is a "FrakenLuger", but it is in pretty decent shape.(Could anybody tell me what I have?).. I noticed that the "ledges" on the breechblock had begun to seperate, where the extractor sits, so I replaced it, and the extractor, with ones from G.P.C.....I had trouble with the gun feeding, out of the clip, and extracting the spent shells, even after replacing the b.b, and extractor. I also had the take down lever fly out while trying to shoot it, so I ended up purchasing a new extractor spring, and new take down lever spring from Mr. Heller, the "Luger Doc."........After putting it all back together, now, I have to push down on the toggle when it reloads the chamber, but, other than this, she is shooting sweet! Do you"all think I should replace the main spring? I am capable of doing the work, as I am an amateur gunsmith, and I have a friend who is a gun smith. (He also used to work for Colt, and Winchester!). Also, where and how do I get a set of replacement grips to keep my originals safe? I understand Mr. Hugh Clark may be able to help me out with this... Thanks a lot, everybody, for any help/advice!!!!!

[Edward Tinker]

Chris, welcome to the forum. Sounds to me like you did some research already

I think you know or have guessed;

1936 year the receiver was made

byf is the code name for Mauser (who did make 1936 lugers)


Ed

[cburd]

Yes, I have been scouring these boards, for the last week or so, trying to see what exactly I have bought, and how to get rid of the gremlins! I feel it was a little mis-represented to me by the seller, but I am content with it, as I bought it as a shooter. I have also bought an extra mag, from sportsmans guide, which is the SAME one G.P.C. sells, only cheaper! And, yes, I have kept the original parts, as the breech block was stamped. Thanks!
cburd

[MFC]

Chris,
A 1936 chamber date should have an S/42 (Mauser code) toggle.
The BYF code wasn't used until 1941.
I hope you get all the kinks worked out.
Mike C.

[Lugerdoc]

Chris, I have many types of PO8 repro grips available in the $25 range. Also have the new BPB Triple mags, like you purchased from Sportsman Guide @$20 + $3 S&H, which is probably about what they charge including S&H. Now that you've fixed the extractor/BB problems, you may want to check the movement of your ejector to make sure that it is not interfering with the smooth operation of your luger. Lugerdoc

[cburd]

Thanks, Luger doc., I will try the b.b, and toggle without the extractor in it, and see if it still binds, and go from there. Thanks a lot to all of you, I will let you know what I find, and how it turns out!
Chris

[cburd]

Hey, y'all, I "stoned" the breech block, and did some work with the jewelers files, and have a very smooth action, now. The ejector groove was not as deep as it should have been, (by about .20 thousands, comparing it to the original), and there were several burrs, but, G.P.C. did supply a sound platform to work from..... Anyway, I found that the firing pin spring is what was causing the toggle to not go into "battery", as I think it may have been replaced with a stiffer one, (It is pretty strong, at least, stronger than the mainspring!!!!!)... so, I ordered the spring pak from Wolf, hoping that having everything new will fix this pistol. I have wanted a Luger since I was about 12 years old, ( I'm 48!), and was looking for a Beretta px-4 compact, in .40 cal., when I found this one. As I said before, the dealer mis-represented this thing, but it was a decent enough price, that I was willing to take a chance. When I get all of the bugs worked out of it, I will have something that I will keep 'till I die, even if, it is only worth a few bucks, collector wise. I intend on rebluing it, (salt), and restrawing it, as I understand it would have been strawed. I really appreciate all of the replies from everyone, and am looking for that "safe queen" Luger, now, much to my wife's chagrin!!!!! Also, I cleaned the original grips, as per the instructions on here, and they are beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!! I ordered a set of black widow grips from G.P.C, to fit, and use when firing it. I am interested in a GOOD set of replacements, in walnut, so, I hope the "Armadillo" guy will contact me. Everyone of you that responded gave me some insight, and I thank you! And, Mr. "Luger Doc", I will definately contact you with any more part needs......THANKS! (Don't mean to yell!)...........All of you are a credit to respectable firearms collectors, of any kind! I will let y"all know how it does when I finish "rebuilding" it! Finally, it does have import stamps, vega sac cal Germany....
Chris

[cburd]

Oh yes, I tried the breech block, without the ejector, and it was smoother, but hung up where the firing pin contacts the sear bar, and "cocks" the firing pin. After a lot of "manuevering", I got everything working smooth as glass, but it still hung up at the same point. (I also polished the firing pin, on a buffing wheel, being very careful not to take out the "83" stamp on it!!!!)...... (Everything on this pistol is either marked "84", or "83").....I don't know if someone replaced the striker spring, or modified it, or what, but it seems to have more tension than the main spring. So, I gave Wolf's website a visit, and have a spring pak on the way. (Service pak). Anyway, when I did the initial work, replacing the breech block, extractor, extractor spring, and take down lever spring, I went to wallyworld, and got some Winchester white box, like everyone on here raves about, (as far as Lugers go!), and had the problems noted. I will finish my "rebuild", when the parts come in, and will report my success, or lack of it............Once again, thanks to everyone for taking me "under your wing"..... I have everything from Tech-9's, to 0-3 Springfields, and the knowledge to work on them, and the willingness to share it, and help others, but this is my first Luger, and I LOVE IT!!!!!!!. (And I really appreciate the help with my ignorance of the PO-8!!!!).....
Chris

[John Sabato]

Chris,

Keep us posted on your progress. There is nothing like the enthusiasm exhibited by a new Luger owner... We will be glad to help you get to smooth operation...

[cburd]

Hello, I just recieved the Wolf spring pak today, and I will try to get this thing back together in the next day or so. I had one thought, and was wondering what anyone's opinion would be of this: could the coupling link be bent, as I was working the action, without the recoil spring and guide in it, and it just seems like the recoil spring lever may be "bottoming out", before the toggle reaches full battery. Almost as if the coupling link runs out of travel, before the toggle gets past the point where the firing pin contacts the sear, as that is where the toggle keeps stopping. It seems like the whole problem is overcoming the tension of the firing pin spring. Maybe the new recoil spring will fix it, I hope!!!! Anyways, thanks for any and all input!
Chris

[Lugerdoc]

Chris, The last couple of lugers that I've received for repair had similar problems. In both cases, it turned out that the breech blocks were out of spec and dragging on the frame on recoil. You may want to check the bottom of the BB for blue wear. Perhaps a bit of judicious filing or BB replacement will be required. Lugerdoc

[cburd]

Hello, again. After some very careful stoning of the breech block, I finally have this thing shooting sweet. I discovered that there was a "tight spot" where the toggle connects to the breech block. I very carefully added some relief, and, viola! She works great, now! As I get time, I will straw the parts that should be that way, and salt blue the rest. As I said before, this was purchased as a shooter to start with, but later, I will definately be looking for a collectable Luger. Thanks so much to all of you who have helped me out!
sincerely,
Chris

[SIGP2101]

And please do not use buffing wheel during your restoration project.

[cburd]

No, no buffing wheel, as I want to preserve all of the markings! When I finish it, I want it to look as new, with everything intact. I wish I had some before pics, but I will post some after pics when it is done.
Chris