W2ec,
Regarding your question about what to do, it looks like you plan to shoot the pistol a good bit, so my thinking is that it's good to try to do it in a way which will put the least wear on a nice collector gun. That's why I use my own cast lead bullets in everything I shoot. And that's why I never use unnecessarily steamed up handloads. Bore wear is just about zero and the cycling parts do not take a beating.
I would do it this way. Consider the relatively inexpensive Wolff spring a sacrificial lamb. Find the load which lets the gun function with the original spring. Then install the Wolff spring. Obviously, it won't work well, or perhaps at all; too stiff. With a Dremel cutoff tool, remove only one full coil at a time.
You will reach a point where the gun will eject and reload maybe 50% of the time. Remove one more full coil and see if you get 100% reliability. If not remove more, but only about 1/3 coil at a time.
What you accomplish by doing this so conservatively is that you get functional reliability, but also minimize the impact force of the "stop" surface of the rear toggle link when it hits the rear vertical face of the grip frame. If your loads are too powerful in recoil energy, this is the highly visible area which gets slowly peened and is likely to influence collector value.
Take a look at Lugers offered for sale, and this rear surface tells the tale. It can't be fudged. If the area is dished or rounded and refinished, the evidence is only more revealing and should make you more closely examine other parts of the gun.
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