LugerForum Discussion Forums - View Single Post

G.T. · 06-10-2014, 10:21 AM

Hi Alx, and Alanint, and all... you are correct in that the spring pushes back against the firing pin retainer when fully compressed and with an un-broken pin... I was over generalizing on that point, as I only meant to illustrate that the rear half of the pin stays back with out the ability to utilize any type of energy to go forward, (my bad!)...... as in, the part, of the now two piece pin, with the sear notch won't go forward, whether held back or slid back, as it has nothing to propel it?? (CORRECT) The back half has essentially become a notched tube... But, you are incorrect when you state the spring pushes ahead on the forward part of the broken pin. (WRONG, I was incorrect! it still has some preload) In essence, with a broken pin, it is fully extended, un-contained, (WRONG! has some tension) and pushes or hold the front part forward. (CORRECT) with a broken pin it has far less preload then with a good pin and cocked? ...Now, if we can see the same thing on what is posted above, (I NOW SEE YOUR POINTS, CAN YOU SEE MINE?)

you then will see the rest of what I describe is correct. The gun will not fire, because of the (NEAR) full length spring does NOT exert enough force on the front part of the pin, and there is little kinetic energy (1/2 pin, (NEARLY) full length (SLIGHTLY) compressed spring? Short pin movement, maybe .050"?), to ignite the primer when slammed shut.. also, you will not hear any click as there is NO mechanical movement of any, or either, part of the firing pin, as it is already either fully pushed forward under WEAK spring tension, or held back by the sear because of no spring tension against the rear half of the broken pin?? (sear bar moves, back half of the pin doesn't.... ) So, in essence, the FP spring becomes a shock absorber of sorts, (CORRECT) allowing the front part of the broken pin to push back slightly, instead of denting the primer cup... NOW!! If the firing pin breaks irregularly, and for some odd reason, a shard of broken pin jams the forward part of the pin fully into the breechblock, then we have a different animal entirely!
So, I still maintain, the gun will not click, and the round will not fire in the vast majorities of firing pin full separation failures..

.. BTW, both pins I had, broke in half at exactly the same place.. righ in the middle where it was numbered, and both were WW1, and, to make matters worse, each time, I cycled the gun several times to try and get it to work thinking it was a common sear or trigger lever issue... Nothing I tried would make it fire!!... Had to put a pin in it... plain and simple... "Nothing is ever as it seems!"

Best to all, til...lat'r....GT

06-10-2014, 10:21 AM	#19
G.T. Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Chandler Arizona Posts: 3,486 Thanks: 1,283 Thanked 3,583 Times in 989 Posts	firing pin failure... Hi Alx, and Alanint, and all... you are correct in that the spring pushes back against the firing pin retainer when fully compressed and with an un-broken pin... I was over generalizing on that point, as I only meant to illustrate that the rear half of the pin stays back with out the ability to utilize any type of energy to go forward, (my bad!)...... as in, the part, of the now two piece pin, with the sear notch won't go forward, whether held back or slid back, as it has nothing to propel it?? (CORRECT) The back half has essentially become a notched tube... But, you are incorrect when you state the spring pushes ahead on the forward part of the broken pin. (WRONG, I was incorrect! it still has some preload) In essence, with a broken pin, it is fully extended, un-contained, (WRONG! has some tension) and pushes or hold the front part forward. (CORRECT) with a broken pin it has far less preload then with a good pin and cocked? ...Now, if we can see the same thing on what is posted above, (I NOW SEE YOUR POINTS, CAN YOU SEE MINE?) you then will see the rest of what I describe is correct. The gun will not fire, because of the (NEAR) full length spring does NOT exert enough force on the front part of the pin, and there is little kinetic energy (1/2 pin, (NEARLY) full length (SLIGHTLY) compressed spring? Short pin movement, maybe .050"?), to ignite the primer when slammed shut.. also, you will not hear any click as there is NO mechanical movement of any, or either, part of the firing pin, as it is already either fully pushed forward under WEAK spring tension, or held back by the sear because of no spring tension against the rear half of the broken pin?? (sear bar moves, back half of the pin doesn't.... ) So, in essence, the FP spring becomes a shock absorber of sorts, (CORRECT) allowing the front part of the broken pin to push back slightly, instead of denting the primer cup... NOW!! If the firing pin breaks irregularly, and for some odd reason, a shard of broken pin jams the forward part of the pin fully into the breechblock, then we have a different animal entirely! So, I still maintain, the gun will not click, and the round will not fire in the vast majorities of firing pin full separation failures.. .. BTW, both pins I had, broke in half at exactly the same place.. righ in the middle where it was numbered, and both were WW1, and, to make matters worse, each time, I cycled the gun several times to try and get it to work thinking it was a common sear or trigger lever issue... Nothing I tried would make it fire!!... Had to put a pin in it... plain and simple... "Nothing is ever as it seems!" Best to all, til...lat'r....GT Last edited by G.T.; 06-11-2014 at 02:02 AM.