LugerForum Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Mark D's Luger Rust Blue Solution and Refinishing Tips Article

nukem556 · 12-01-2011, 07:49 PM

Mark....great job and excellent write-up! I'm gratified to see that my ideas on the sodium nitrate have come to further fruition.....after also scouring the Net ad nauseum, I found those couple of obscure references to the NaNO3 and had hopes it was the missing link....I think we agree it probably is.
You've taken to a further degree, with enhanced results, I think. I was very conservative adding the sodium nitrate to my solution....as I added it, it fizzed somewhat, like baking soda in vinegar. I concluded from this that the NaNO3 is somewhat basic, and I was leery of adding too much, thereby neutralizing the effect of the nitric acid. It appears my fears were ungrounded, next time I mix a batch, I'll follow your proportions. ( I used, by my calculations, about 1/3 of what you did).
I'm gonna be presumptious enough to add a couple points to your description of the process. The final finish you end up with on fully prepped metal that has been done with 320/400 grit polishing material is pretty much totally dependent on rust times between boiling and carding....look carefully at Mark's above photos.....the deep even orange-brown color such as on the toggle will result in a more matte final finish....the reddish-yellowish- black such as on the sideplate is a less advanced state of oxidation....if the rusting cycles are halted at his point, the final finish will be "shinier". This could be a factor if you're restoring a 1900, compared to say, an S/42.
Also, Mark didn't state for sure if he used tap water, or not....if he did, he lives in an area with nice, soft water. In my area, its full of calcium and other crud, very hard. Distilled water at Wal Mart is like .88 a gallon, and cheap insurance...don't take a chance with all your hard work!!!

12-01-2011, 07:49 PM	#5
nukem556 User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Irmo, SC Posts: 625 Thanks: 35 Thanked 168 Times in 107 Posts	Mark....great job and excellent write-up! I'm gratified to see that my ideas on the sodium nitrate have come to further fruition.....after also scouring the Net ad nauseum, I found those couple of obscure references to the NaNO3 and had hopes it was the missing link....I think we agree it probably is. You've taken to a further degree, with enhanced results, I think. I was very conservative adding the sodium nitrate to my solution....as I added it, it fizzed somewhat, like baking soda in vinegar. I concluded from this that the NaNO3 is somewhat basic, and I was leery of adding too much, thereby neutralizing the effect of the nitric acid. It appears my fears were ungrounded, next time I mix a batch, I'll follow your proportions. ( I used, by my calculations, about 1/3 of what you did). I'm gonna be presumptious enough to add a couple points to your description of the process. The final finish you end up with on fully prepped metal that has been done with 320/400 grit polishing material is pretty much totally dependent on rust times between boiling and carding....look carefully at Mark's above photos.....the deep even orange-brown color such as on the toggle will result in a more matte final finish....the reddish-yellowish- black such as on the sideplate is a less advanced state of oxidation....if the rusting cycles are halted at his point, the final finish will be "shinier". This could be a factor if you're restoring a 1900, compared to say, an S/42. Also, Mark didn't state for sure if he used tap water, or not....if he did, he lives in an area with nice, soft water. In my area, its full of calcium and other crud, very hard. Distilled water at Wal Mart is like .88 a gallon, and cheap insurance...don't take a chance with all your hard work!!! Last edited by nukem556; 12-01-2011 at 09:12 PM.