Hi to all, working on Luger fire control parts can be very frustrating, and also very expensive! It's like hunting ducks in the desert, you're in the wrong place right from the get go? So, first things first, we need to determine if we have a broken/defective part or assembly, or an altered part that has attracted our attention. That's the easy part to start with, making sure all the good parts are interacting properly, that's the hard part. So again, we need to make sure the frame assembly is doing all it is supposed to, and likewise the receiver assembly. Let's start with the frame assembly. My first check is the trigger as in, can you pull it all the way back, and when you release it will it go all the way? You may have to form the front loop part until it matches the radius of the triggerguard to got full forward travel, then make sure the trigger spring returns it smoothly to full forward as well. Then we need to test fit the side plate to the frame and make sure it is square, tight, and inline with the receiver. After we have accomplished that, then we need to inspect the trigger lever. It is important that when the trigger is relaxed, the top part of the trigger lever has enough travel to almost dissappear into the sideplate relief provided for it. And when the trigger is pulled all the way back to the frame, the same beveled end of the trigger lever lines up with the vertical front edge of the sideplate as well. That is just about all the frame assembly can do?
Now to the receiver, keep in mind weak springs are not usually the problem, but they can certainly aggrivate the problem, so we will only refer to them when we feel the need to address a specific issue or re-occuring problem other then trigger pull. So lets start out with the two most important items concerning trigger pull and sear break! They are the sear bar and the firing pin! These two parts influence a good or acceptible trigger pull in most Lugers all else being correct, or nearly so. If there parts are worn in the sear notch area, all kinds of mailfunctions can arise, not to mention doubling and failure to reset on closing. The sear bar return spring can additionally influence this as well, but only if the worn sear problem alread exists. At this point, we need to make sure the disconnector plunger is free and not deformed, as well as having a nice stiff feel to it. It is critical to the reset when the receiver return to battery, it then needs sufficient energy to defeat the trigger lever to reset for the next trigger pull. So, we put the Luger back together and walla! It doesn't work!
It's doing one of two things, it either won't fire, (not pushing sear bar in far enough, bend sear bar out) or, it won't disconnect (won't push the disconnector pin past the trigger lever, bend the sear bar in)
OK, now that we have determined what we need to do, in or out, bridge the sear bar on two plastic blocks, and with a plastic bar tap on the sear bar right at the notch where it goes on the receiver, you can tap, install, test as you go by measuring it in relation to the protectivr shelf right above the sear bar on the receiver. OK, back to reassembly and testing, final desired result!
The trigger when pulled, should break right befor it contacts the frame, and the disconnector should click/release just before it, the trigger, touches the trigger guard? Both of these opperations should occur with about .020" to .040" of travel yet left before contact.
See! Piece of cake!
BTW, nothing like having a pile of spare parts to make it all happen! Best to all, til.....lat'r.....GT
