[Big Norm]

Dan,


The very first thing that I look at is the Locking Bolt. It is a tough part to get absolutely right. Then I look at whether or not there is what some people on this forum have called Sperm Whale oil coating on the strawed parts. But this may not be there because some prior owners may have cleaned it off. It is a sort of clear varnish like coating. If the strawed parts look good then I look at the serial numbers. A Luger that is minty will have these numbers just jump out at you with their crispness. I wish that I could show you a 1938 Mauser S42 that I have. The serial numbers just smack me in the face with their crispness every time I look at it. There is holster wear, but the gun is real.


Aside from that, I pretty much look at a Luger like others on this forum. And I am learning more everyday. I pretty much stick to the WW1 Lugers and don't stray a lot. The WW2 Lugers seem to have a lot more to them regarding bluing and when the serial number were actually struck during manufacture.


I had a 1916 rebarreled navy once and a guy showed me the checkering on the toggle under a eyeglass. He explained to me that the checkering was just too perfect for an authentic rear toggle. I could not see it with my naked eyes but it was clear under a good eyeglass. I still have to do some research on that subject.


I got a 1906 Swiss Cross in Shield that I thought was minty. Everything looked great at the gun show. Sperm Whale Oil, beautiful bluing, great grips, perfect mag, serial numbers crisp and so forth. But then I took it out in the daylight and I noticed that the straps showed more wear than I would have reasonably expected. I keep looking at that Luger and wondering. But I still like it.


I don't buy guns that I notice pitting on so I can't say anything about bluing over rust pitting.

Big Norm