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Big Norm · 07-30-2003, 05:42 AM

Pete,
nice write-up. My 1937 has a later s.n. (#7617) and I don't have a two digit serial # on the side plate. I don't see a difference in the rabbit ears on the frame. The trigger seems to correspond in thickness to Gibsons pictures. I still have to look at the proof marks. The "881" on all my HK's do not have a base on the "1". The lack of whiting in "GESICHERT" is a problem but the "G" does appear to be the wrong size. There are 6 notches on the thumb safety on all of my Krieghoffs.

But you guys scared the dickens out of me on my 1943 (sn 11610) when you talked about the toggle knobs. They are totally different from the 1936-37.
Noticably flatter with a sharper edge between the top and the side. But then I looked at Jans books pg 279-80 and saw that that one has flat toggle knobs too. I'll sleep better tonight.
Big Norm

07-30-2003, 05:42 AM	#16
Big Norm RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 1,864 Thanks: 1 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Pete, nice write-up. My 1937 has a later s.n. (#7617) and I don't have a two digit serial # on the side plate. I don't see a difference in the rabbit ears on the frame. The trigger seems to correspond in thickness to Gibsons pictures. I still have to look at the proof marks. The "881" on all my HK's do not have a base on the "1". The lack of whiting in "GESICHERT" is a problem but the "G" does appear to be the wrong size. There are 6 notches on the thumb safety on all of my Krieghoffs. But you guys scared the dickens out of me on my 1943 (sn 11610) when you talked about the toggle knobs. They are totally different from the 1936-37. Noticably flatter with a sharper edge between the top and the side. But then I looked at Jans books pg 279-80 and saw that that one has flat toggle knobs too. I'll sleep better tonight. Big Norm