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Unread 07-18-2022, 12:13 PM   #24
shinji_ikari
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Thank you for the JB weld idea. In case anyone else is thinking this may work for them, or in the future if anyone wants to suggest this I will lay out the steps I took.


This is one method of lightening a trigger which is very heavy (to the point where you have to squeeze with a lot of force just to make it fire, enough force that your hand is shaking even with a two hand grip), this was not done just to lighten to a 'hair' trigger.

Diagnostic:

1. Clear the weapon
2. Place a inert, dummy round in the chamber and **** the weapon.
3. Fire the weapon, and note how much force you had to exert to make it fire.
4. Remove the sideplate and place a piece of masking tape around the the leg that sticks out and is not recessed into the sideplate. Before reinstalling ensure the tape is pressed snuggly on the top.
5. Reinstall the sideplate and test fire with the dummy round. The trigger should break with less force.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 till you get a trigger pull you like or can live with.
7. Note how thick the mass of tape is on the top.

For the repair:
1. Clear the weapon
2. Remove sideplate
3. Clean the 'L' shaped transfer bar, specifically the leg that sticks out and is not recessed into the sideplate. I used an alcohol prep, which apparently is not recommended for JB weld. This was the first time I have used the stuff, so I was just happy that I got it mixed right and applied without making a mess and getting it where I wanted it.
4. Lay the sideplate on its side and walk away for 24 hours.
5. After 24 hours use 800 grit sandpaper to first square up the glob of JB weld, you do not it overhanging the edges.
6. Before sanding the top down attempt to reinstall the sideplate and fire the weapon. Note it may not install, and even if it does, it may not fire.
7. Sand the top surface of the glob of JB weld, I checked every 3-5 strokes.
8. This is more of a note than a step: Once you remove enough JB weld to where the side plate will actually install the weapon may either refuse to fire. The reason is that the transfer bar has too much material on the lever and is causing the top leg to protrude so much that the weapon can not reset. If this happens simply continue to sand and check. Again checking every 3-5 strokes should ensure you do not remove too much material.
9. At some point the weapon will be able to reset and will fire, with a noticeably lighter trigger pull. Once the weapon will reset and fire you can continue to sand to either make the trigger heavier, or switch to a finer grit of sandpaper and try to smooth it out. For me, I am happy with where mine is and am taking it as a victory.

I would like the thank everyone who has offered suggestions and encouragement. Specifically I want to thank Doubs for suggesting the tape and JB weld.
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