[ithacaartist]

4162k is not in the commercial data base, but it would fall among a group with close serial numbers that are also .30 Luger and likely also Commercial. There is no b block in the data base, so I think the suffix letter is a slightly mis-struck k, with part of its lower "leg" looking like it's there. Somewhere in the FAQ here, or somewhere, is a set of images that show the different variations of the script suffix letters...do a search and you should find it.

The C/N is the ubiquitous marking for Commercial Lugers in general, and the upright C/N is what you'd expect on a Wiemar era commercial. On earlier Commercials, the stamp appeared on its side, the "lazy C/N." It has nothing to do with 1950. No Lugers were made in 1950, either. Everybody loves Lugers, put most are prey to the myriad myths and misconceptions about them that abound, and gunsmiths and dealers are not exceptions to those who believe incorrect things them.

Commercial Lugers' serial numbers started out around zero around 1900 and went into the 90,000s before the style was changed in the early 20s. Military style serial numbering means that the number is no more than four digits plus a suffix letter. This takes up less room/fewer digits to make the serial number than continuing into the 100,000s and beyond. The suffix letters are why they're called "Alphabet Commercials." It would not make it a Military just to be numbered in that style. It would need the typical military proof/acceptance marks on the right, front side of the grip frame, and C/N.

I recommend field stripping the pistol for a good cleaning and lube. YouTube is full of instructional/demonstration videos that will guide you. During this, you can check to see if it needs further disassembly for deeper cleaning, although most Lugers resist developing internal corrosion quite well--a rust-bucket on the outside can more often than not be pristine internally, although under the grips is one of the first places it seems to develop. Your main concern should be to ferret out and address any active, red rust. The finish needs no more than wiping it down with a cloth dampened with the oil of you choice. Avoid contacting the finish with anything abrasive or acidic.