Quote:
Originally Posted by Laf
Thanks for the insight on the safety spring tension. I'm assuming it's more like the H&K P7M8/13 where there is a considerable amount of force required to activate it. With that series it is a lot to get it going but easy to hold once it's cocked. I was assuming this would be like a 1911 style grip safety and require a pound or two of force to hold down and not effect the grip much but it sounds like it is very stout.
I have found a local place that will strip the nickel finish off and either re-apply or blue it so I'll look into that further. The finish appears to be so thick that it covers up any of the proof markings on the side of the receiver and I'd like to know what those are.
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The safety spring is Not very "stout", it is quite easy to squeeze if it is the correct spring.
If you have a large hand, it may be a little tough to squeeze the safety to its limit, not because of the spring, but because of the shape of the grip vs. one's hand.
I use a bit of the fluffly side of a piece of velcro stuck to my grip safety on my shooter for this reason.
Don't waste your money stripping the pistol to find the markings!
They are quite likely long lost to the buffing wheel before plating.
I'd replace the spring, but not spend any more money trying to change it into something it is not.
Welcome to the board.