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Olle · 12-06-2012, 03:14 PM

Thanks guys, I sure appreciate all the input and ideas!

The bend could be taken care of either by shimming like Neil suggested, or with the “stop block” or final adjustment step GT is describing. These methods will require some trial and error, I can’t see any other way to determine exactly how much you will need to correct for the springback. Another solution that has crossed my mind is to install some kind of set screw arrangement in the cap, so I can adjust the tension until I find the point where everything ends up straight. Then again, if I can find a better material than the stout and somewhat springy drill rod, I might not have this problem anymore.

The clamp may seem like overkill, but it’s there as an attempt to keep that section straight, and it was also needed to hold the blank centered while I was figuring out the correct cut length for the rod. Once everything works as intended, I have planned to add “something” (haven’t figured out exactly how to do it yet) where I can just drop the blank between two stops that hold it centered. We’ll see what I can come up with, this is actually the first prototype and it already works 99%, so I might just keep the clamp solution. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, but now I have plenty of ideas for how to make a new and improved tool once it breaks.

The ends are made with a slight bevel, and there’s good reason for that. If I were to install one of these, I would build yet another fixture that would work as a holder/anvil while I stake the ends to the frame. However, I opted to go with beveled ends to make it easier for other people to install it. My thought is that the bevels make it very easy to put the loop in the frame, straight ends with sharp edges tend to scrape and bind in the holes, and what usually happens is that the piece gets cocked, bent or acts up in general. If you tap it in with a little Loctite it will be secure enough, and my assumption here is that there’s not too much strength needed. I don’t think that anybody would use the lanyard to swing a collectible pistol around, but just to make sure I did a test with a loop installed in a piece of steel together with some red Loctite. It took a large screwdriver to pry it loose, so I would think that it’s an easy DIY solution that’s workable and “strong enough”.

12-06-2012, 03:14 PM	#33
Olle User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Tennessee Posts: 1,149 Thanks: 159 Thanked 663 Times in 318 Posts	Thanks guys, I sure appreciate all the input and ideas! The bend could be taken care of either by shimming like Neil suggested, or with the “stop block” or final adjustment step GT is describing. These methods will require some trial and error, I can’t see any other way to determine exactly how much you will need to correct for the springback. Another solution that has crossed my mind is to install some kind of set screw arrangement in the cap, so I can adjust the tension until I find the point where everything ends up straight. Then again, if I can find a better material than the stout and somewhat springy drill rod, I might not have this problem anymore. The clamp may seem like overkill, but it’s there as an attempt to keep that section straight, and it was also needed to hold the blank centered while I was figuring out the correct cut length for the rod. Once everything works as intended, I have planned to add “something” (haven’t figured out exactly how to do it yet) where I can just drop the blank between two stops that hold it centered. We’ll see what I can come up with, this is actually the first prototype and it already works 99%, so I might just keep the clamp solution. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, but now I have plenty of ideas for how to make a new and improved tool once it breaks. The ends are made with a slight bevel, and there’s good reason for that. If I were to install one of these, I would build yet another fixture that would work as a holder/anvil while I stake the ends to the frame. However, I opted to go with beveled ends to make it easier for other people to install it. My thought is that the bevels make it very easy to put the loop in the frame, straight ends with sharp edges tend to scrape and bind in the holes, and what usually happens is that the piece gets cocked, bent or acts up in general. If you tap it in with a little Loctite it will be secure enough, and my assumption here is that there’s not too much strength needed. I don’t think that anybody would use the lanyard to swing a collectible pistol around, but just to make sure I did a test with a loop installed in a piece of steel together with some red Loctite. It took a large screwdriver to pry it loose, so I would think that it’s an easy DIY solution that’s workable and “strong enough”.