I don't know about the heavy Luger shooters, but what I have to say is...
I have a bunch of pistols and never shoot any one of them a lot. BUT I do a lot of shooting. With handguns, I never ever fire a jacketed bullet. I cast all of mine, and reload for about 30 different cartridges. Use cast bullets exclusively and you can forget about barrel wear, unless you grind the bore down with a steel cleaning rod.
I would never fire a jacketed bullet in an original Luger.
With handloads and lead bullets, you can also tailor your charge to operate the gun reliably, but not beat it to pieces. With the Luger's fast, sharp action, that is important.
With original relic handguns, I cannot comprehend why anybody willing to shoot one, at all, would do so any other way. It makes no sense to me. Hard jackets, at supersonic velocities, create a lot of wear...especially with shallow rifling.
And with cast bullets, your cost drops to almost nothing. My 9mm loads cost slightly more than the price of a primer...less than .22 LR ammo.
With the prices and availability of just about everything becoming rigged in recent years, tin has been no exception, and prices shot skyward, if you can even find the stuff. I agonized about being unable to blend the correct Lyman #2 alloy mixture. Then several friends confided that they had given up on this, and had been casting straight wheel weight alloy for a long time. It is fairly hard "as is". But believing it would not work quite right, and would probably lead to bore leading in the 1100 foot per second range, I tried it anyway...using a standard NRA lubricant recipe.
It worked perfectly. No leading. Sure, in magnums I use a gas check. But go with wheel weight lead. Several years ago, I bought 600 pounds of them from a local tire specialist. He wanted $.10 a pound, and we weighed them on his old bathroom scales.
My S/42 Luger is perfectly happy with this low budget food.
Oh yes, I'm also into bullet swaging, for the high velocity rifle stuff and magnum handguns. There too, you can do it very inexpensively, and the fun is free. Everybody is into .223 military pattern rifles. I have a few. They all eat my swaged 55 grain jacketed bullets, where the raw jacket is a 7-grain straight sided cup, swaged from a .22 LR fired case. Such gilding metal alloy is just right for thin wall jackets.
For small varmint bullets in the 4,000 foot per second range, you are pretty much forced to buy commercial jackets, which are twice as thick as mine. To keep from flying apart at over 100,000 RPM above 3,200 feet per second, they must be strong.
Think. Learn. Experiment. Have fun.
I know some of you newer shooters and collectors do not yet reload, and may be reluctant to try, but please do. You will have a lot more fun with your guns, including the Lugers. It's quite safe, and much easier than you may have been thinking. The basic equipment to get started is not expensive...just a single stage press, a die set, and some basics for melting and casting lead. Then if you like it, you can selectively buy and upgrade....as I have done over some decades.
But please, don't grind these fine German bores down with jacketed bullets which cost $.30 to $.50 each, even before you buy primers and powder. And don't shoot surplus military ammo of unknown parentage, or high velocity submachinegun rounds which will hammer the whole toggle assembly and grip frame...until something breaks.