LugerForum Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Digfind acquired: 1920 rework of a WW1 artillery

Vlim · 12-31-2004, 09:15 AM

Hi Bill,

actually, the moving parts including the rail were in a pretty good condition. Cutting through the rust with a small blade helped to get the mechanism going as the only thing blocking the mechanism is the expanding rust and usually it's not much rust.

You can pry the knobs upwards and rearwards at the same time, working the toggle loose bit by bit. I also did a lot of mallet tapping on all parts of the pistol, just to break the parts free. What also worked well, was inserting a small blade screwdriver between the ears and the toggle, slightly moving them apart. This again broke the rust and it gave space for the blade of a cutting knife, so I could peen out even more rust. It also provided extra space for oil to soak in even deeper.

The toggle moved rearwards after about a week of work. The receiver had to be forced out because of the fire damage, which warped the receiver so it had difficulty clearing the 'ears'. Remember, I first had to move the receiver rearwards in order to free up the takedown switch and the side plate (which came off pretty easily). Then I had to force the receiver forward again for further dismantling.

You'll probably loose the rear end of the firing pin when you start freeing the toggle. It helps to get the sear bar out before you start releasing the toggle any further. But of course, this means the side plate must be removed first.....Your artillery already has it's takedown lever and sideplate missing, so that'll make things slightly easier.

A difficult part is the hook that connects the toggle to the main spring. This hook needed quite a bit of encouraging to get going again, but is fully functional now.

I must say that my respect for these weapons as well as the trust in them has grown after this experiment.

12-31-2004, 09:15 AM	#25
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,053 Thanks: 1,036 Thanked 3,991 Times in 1,205 Posts	Hi Bill, actually, the moving parts including the rail were in a pretty good condition. Cutting through the rust with a small blade helped to get the mechanism going as the only thing blocking the mechanism is the expanding rust and usually it's not much rust. You can pry the knobs upwards and rearwards at the same time, working the toggle loose bit by bit. I also did a lot of mallet tapping on all parts of the pistol, just to break the parts free. What also worked well, was inserting a small blade screwdriver between the ears and the toggle, slightly moving them apart. This again broke the rust and it gave space for the blade of a cutting knife, so I could peen out even more rust. It also provided extra space for oil to soak in even deeper. The toggle moved rearwards after about a week of work. The receiver had to be forced out because of the fire damage, which warped the receiver so it had difficulty clearing the 'ears'. Remember, I first had to move the receiver rearwards in order to free up the takedown switch and the side plate (which came off pretty easily). Then I had to force the receiver forward again for further dismantling. You'll probably loose the rear end of the firing pin when you start freeing the toggle. It helps to get the sear bar out before you start releasing the toggle any further. But of course, this means the side plate must be removed first.....Your artillery already has it's takedown lever and sideplate missing, so that'll make things slightly easier. A difficult part is the hook that connects the toggle to the main spring. This hook needed quite a bit of encouraging to get going again, but is fully functional now. I must say that my respect for these weapons as well as the trust in them has grown after this experiment.