[GunCat]

Correct me if I am wrong, but this is the general consensus I got from reading "The Luger Pistol Mechanical Features" and other sources.
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Lugers made before 1930, are all designed to fire an (atleast) 115 grain projectile at (or less than depending on weight) 1025FPS, a relatively light load. Lugers made in this era were also known to be much smoother and all were hand polished etc.

Lugers made after 1930, especially Mauser Lugers, were designed for HIGHER than normal pressures. The whole toggle was buffed out, and the chamber and everything, even the springs were enhanced. Mauser went even farther and added a lot of bulk, but made tolerances tiny.

The result, after 1930, is that the lugers action wasn't nearly as smooth, and it also required sufficiently hot 9mm to cycle the action. The lugers made after 1930 are also known to have a shorter life despite the buffering. Pre-1930 lugers needed lighter loads, otherwise it would cause parts of the action to move excessively faster than other parts in the action, causing damage and wear.

For optimum reliability and lifespan:
It is recommended that you made your own loads for it, because the cartridge length and size has to be almost PERFECT in order to ensure reliable operation. Likely a result from the fine measurements and manufacturing tolerances in the rest of the Luger, and it's magazine. For loads, it's recommended to find something that will be as light as you can and still cycle the action. It's recommended for you to start out with loads insufficient to work the action and work your way up to something that does. Also, the more you shoot a luger, especially one made after 1930, you should progressively make your loads lighter as the action smooths itself out.

[The overall length has to be 1.180 for ball ammo and 1.150 for Hollow point. Needs to be extremely close measurements.]