Thor, the bullet casts very nicely and is as accurate as I can shoot. (My eyes are a problem now and I'm not nearly so good at grouping as I used to be.) If I were to do it over - and I still may - I'd have the flat part of the nose, or "meplat", of the bullet at least double it's current diameter. I believe it would still function without a hitch and be a better bullet. The current bullet as been perfect as far as function goes... never a jam.
I put some cast bullet rounds through a 6 inch barrel this evening that Hugh changed for me and it was perfect. No jams and it shot great.
Rick, the cases I made out of GI brass weren't difficult but did take some time. I used a tubing cutter to cut the brass to approximate length. Then I formed it in my RCBS full-length resizing die... just a normal die. I trimmed to length. The hard part was reducing the neck thickness. I used a Forrester trimmer with an outside neck turning attachment to reduce neck thickness for the bullet I was using. .011 - .012" for .308" bullets and .008" for .312" bullets. That was before I started swagging the .312" bullets to smaller diameters. I also made lots of .30 Mauser cases that way too. They worked beautifully in both the Luger and C-96.
The 100 grain Speer "Plinkers" are the most difficult to get right because there's no crimping groove (cannelure) and the bullet is held by neck tension alone. The "trick" is to seat the bullet so that the bullet doesn't go too deep into the neck. The final few thousands of an inch of inside neck diameter needs to be smaller than the bullet to keep it from recessing into the case under recoil. Getting the correct bullet seating depth can be tricky but it's essential to not go too deep.
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