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Doubs · 09-02-2002, 02:14 PM

I agree with Hugh except that I wouldn't bother even trying the 38# spring. Unless the cases are being thrown an excessive distance upon ejection, it's a safe bet that the 36# spring is doing just fine. I'm a firm believer in the old axiom "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

Changing the recoil spring in a Luger can be a bear.... or it can be fairly easy if you know a few tricks. Some are detailed in the information to be found on the side panel of this forum. I can change one pretty quickly using only a couple of screwdrivers and a nut.

I capture the spring on the recoil spring bar's hook and compress it by screwing it down until it fits the compartment in the grip. I lay the frame (both grip panels off) flat on the table with the top part of the frame off of the table and against my body. The nut of proper size is laid on the table in the grip slot and against the cross piece that the recoil spring bar passes through. This keeps the top of the spring from slipping under the grip as it has a habit of doing if not supported. (It would be easy enough, I suppose, to fashion a piece of flat metal of the correct thickness to fill the entire slot and maybe even be secured in place using the grip screw. If one changed a lot of springs.) With a screwdriver tip of the proper size and shape, I push the recoil spring bar toward me and using my other hand and a small screwdriver I push the recoil spring bar hook over the recoil lever. Ease off the tension and you're finished.

09-02-2002, 02:14 PM	#3
Doubs User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Byron, Georgia Posts: 1,736 Thanks: 819 Thanked 1,769 Times in 586 Posts	I agree with Hugh except that I wouldn't bother even trying the 38# spring. Unless the cases are being thrown an excessive distance upon ejection, it's a safe bet that the 36# spring is doing just fine. I'm a firm believer in the old axiom "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" Changing the recoil spring in a Luger can be a bear.... or it can be fairly easy if you know a few tricks. Some are detailed in the information to be found on the side panel of this forum. I can change one pretty quickly using only a couple of screwdrivers and a nut. I capture the spring on the recoil spring bar's hook and compress it by screwing it down until it fits the compartment in the grip. I lay the frame (both grip panels off) flat on the table with the top part of the frame off of the table and against my body. The nut of proper size is laid on the table in the grip slot and against the cross piece that the recoil spring bar passes through. This keeps the top of the spring from slipping under the grip as it has a habit of doing if not supported. (It would be easy enough, I suppose, to fashion a piece of flat metal of the correct thickness to fill the entire slot and maybe even be secured in place using the grip screw. If one changed a lot of springs.) With a screwdriver tip of the proper size and shape, I push the recoil spring bar toward me and using my other hand and a small screwdriver I push the recoil spring bar hook over the recoil lever. Ease off the tension and you're finished.