Joe DeLong

Straw: Thought someone might address this for you. Well......there is the "scientific" method, the "simplistic" method, the "crude" method, and the "so-so" method. The "scientific" method involves the use of an expensive electric furnace, and the experience / knowledge of temperatures, and time to use in regards to the individual parts, and quanty (quantities) of parts. The "crude" method involves a propane torch. The "so-so" method uses nitre blue salts, as sold by Brownells. Let's go with the "simplistic" method, as most folks get good results on the first go-around.


You will need:


A kitchen stove.


An aluminum block with pre-drilled holes for the trigger pivot stud, safety-lever stud, take-down lever, and two grip screws. The ejector bar may be placed on edge. These are the usual strawed parts.


Hemostats or needle-nose pliars to handle hot parts.


Alcohol, or a similar de-greaser. Oakite is very good. It must not leave a "film".


A thin, light, good quality oil in a shallow container. There must be enough depth for the oil to cover the trigger completely.


Prep the parts with the appropriate level of polish you desire. De-grease each part. Do not handle with bare fingers beyond this point.


The parts are "cooked" individually except for the two grip screws; which are done at the same time.


Place a part on the block, and place the block on a stove burner. Apply a "medium" heat, and maintain a close visuual watch on the parts. You will see them start to turn color as they heat up. When the desired color is achieved; remove the part with the pliars, and drop into the oil to "set" the color. Do the two grip screws at the same time to get a color match.


This method is very forgiving, in that, if an error is made; simply re-polish, and start over.


Have Fun!