[velodog455~]

The Blazer brass would be my recommendation if you don't have the ability to make reduced power reloads.

It is possibly the new WWB. Lots of people are having problems with WWB these days, myself included. It is now made both in the U.S. and Bosnia. Running it through my chronograph revealed a 200 fps velocity standard deviation. And it's now referred to as "Training Ammo", printed on the box as such. The Blazer Brass is better IMHO, and priced about the same.

Regardless, either brand with 115 grain bullets will put a bit less recoil stress on the pistol than 124 grainers. There are people who will say they shoot full bore loads through their P.08's and have done so for years with no bad results. I'm an abundance of caution kinda guy and can reload reduced power rounds, so I do. I shoot steel plates at 25 yards at about 750 fps and I have noted that the plates can't tell any difference at all. Ditto for paper targets.

All the above caveats absolutely apply to your P.38, perhaps even more so, as I have seen more broken parts on WW2 P.38's than P.08's, which is why so many people suggest buying a post-war P1 for regular range shooting.

If your 1937 P.08 is a collectible, then running a couple of magazines through it should be OK to verify function, but if you want a Luger to shoot regularly then you would be better off buying a "shooter grade" in the $1,000-$1,200 price range as opposed to taking a similar value hit on your 1937 Luger should you break a serial numbered part. Just my 2 cents worth. Differing opinions may be forthcoming.
-Bob