[Thor]

Rust Blued Lugers General Information
Luger reblues, some helpful hints to avoid getting taken to the cleaners. Things to know and avoid. These comments apply to RUST BLUED Luger pistols that have been reblued (usually salt blued with shiny finishes)
1. ALL Mausers from 1937 (prior to "t" block production) back to the beginning, K dates, G Dates, 1936 and 1937 to the t block and
all DWM, Erfurt and Simson Lugers would have been rust blued with straw parts.
2. The top of the INSIDE of the frame (with the cannon section removed, that is the barrelled receiver and toggle assembly) is going to be "in the white steel, a blued one is an alarm bell, no bueno.
3. The inside of the magazine well, take the grips off and pull the mag, should be "in the white" if it is blue on these early guns, no bueno, YIKES, reblue
4. Is the GESICHERT got paint in it. DWM, and Erfurts will have a tan color paint, Mauser's tend to be lighter, an off or dirty white color. Reblues a lot of time miss putting paint in.
5. Lay the Luger on its side, safety up, look at the big flat area in front of the safety lever. Move your head up and down. Does it look FLAT or WAVY? Wavy, no bueno (no good) A lot of rebluers will not get this right and make a slight wave in the metal.
6. Are the edges fairy crisp, not rounded over. A lot of bubba reblues will round these over, the Germans did not do this. Some are very bad. A lot of time the rebluers will mar some of the markings by over buffing.
7. Take a rust blued Luger out into the sunlight, you probably will some darker patina under the bluing this is correct for an original finish.
8. The inside of the receiver forks and bottom of them will be "in the white", no bueno if blued.
9. Straw parts will be worn to white in the normal places. The bottom of the safety lever may be worn by the thumb going across the bottom of it, same with the right side of the trigger from the trigger finger going across it. Ejectors and mag buttons and take down lever usually dont show much wear.
10. Bluing worn off. The sides of the muzzle bands at the front of the barrel should show some wear as should the top of the side plate island and the end of the two frame rails (right and left sides). Muzzle should be in the white.
11. Avoid high pressure sales, take pictures, study the markings and proof marks to make sure they are correct.
12. Also look at the number fonts to make sure all the numbered parts are matching fonts, many will use parts from different Lugers with the same numbers to fake a matching gun.
13. Take your time in purchasing
14. Also be aware that commercial variations will have a DIFFERENT number system with different placement areas than an Army model.
There are other things to look for but generally, get smart with books and have patience with your search. Knowledge of current Luger values will make you a more informed hunter of these fantastic firearms.