LugerForum Discussion Forums - View Single Post - 1912 dwm p-08

mrerick · 08-25-2019, 07:27 AM

I don't like spraying silicone directly on the surface of firearms because once it bonds, it is impossible to remove. The cloths are good as a finishing wipe because they are hydrophobic, but they are not for cleaning, and especially cleaning forming rust.

First, carefully remove the grips.

Used gently, and not rubbing so as to abrade the blued surface, I believe that the best way to stabilize a blued gun that has started showing pitting and rust accumulation is to oil the gun surface really well (soaking it) and then use a well oiled steel or bronze wool "0000" fine to slowly and gently remove the active iron oxide rust. After that, a good cleaning and final spray with preserving gun oil (I use "RemOil") and a wipe down to remove fingerprints.

Don't store it in the holster.

08-25-2019, 07:27 AM	#8
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,920 Thanks: 1,377 Thanked 3,135 Times in 1,518 Posts	I don't like spraying silicone directly on the surface of firearms because once it bonds, it is impossible to remove. The cloths are good as a finishing wipe because they are hydrophobic, but they are not for cleaning, and especially cleaning forming rust. First, carefully remove the grips. Used gently, and not rubbing so as to abrade the blued surface, I believe that the best way to stabilize a blued gun that has started showing pitting and rust accumulation is to oil the gun surface really well (soaking it) and then use a well oiled steel or bronze wool "0000" fine to slowly and gently remove the active iron oxide rust. After that, a good cleaning and final spray with preserving gun oil (I use "RemOil") and a wipe down to remove fingerprints. Don't store it in the holster. __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.