Jim,
I have to admire the craftsmanship and knowledge that goes into the Luger assembly. Materials have changed I think over the years. That said, the Luger materials have weathered a lot of storms. People tell me that making a spring has its nuiances, when you get done, either you have a spring or you don't.........
I shoot my Lugers; what a pleasure that is. With each new one to me acquired, I am just accustomed to replacing the recoil spring at a minimum. I use Wolff just because I have some and been ok with them. I have noticed that some of the Wolff recoil springs are longer, but seemed to work for me.
If I was pondering such, I would certainly buy or build a recoil tool like some shown on this forum, kinda an awl looking affair with a bend at the nose. Gives you leverage for the coil spring compression. Of course, if you are handy; make your own. I used a pair of pliers and a rod for years, but cannot say that was intelligent, worked; but not intelligent.
Did I mention safety glasses, folks(user or helpers) only get one set of peepers.
I would examine the ramps for galling from the toggles hitting the ramps abbynormally hard and the area of the frame behind the toggle(just above the lanyard loop) for bite. Some guns will give some mark(two side by side marks on the frame), some will be well bitten. The tape test visited here during a firing session will help judge, as will your hand during firing (sting).
Some will tailor reloads or ammo to the pistol. I prefer to handload myself, and will tune the load to just function from the magazine and then a bit more.
Wolff may offer 36,38,40lb rates for Lugers. I have only used the 38lb in my Lugers, I have 36's for 30's, but never used them in the 30 Luger or the 7.65x19 wildcat. Perhaps my lot of springs was ok; I never worried about it, worked.
The other spring I would look at is the extractor spring. See if the extractor can clear an empty shell in the chamber. The spring stack up in my opinion has to be able to allow the nose of the extractor over the case rim without springing of the extractor itself. If the extractor starts acting like a primary spring, because the little spring is too long and stack up jam occurs, the extractor will probably start to fracture and fail. Easy to do, could save an expensive part.
I think the recoil mechanism is fairly complex as are most autoloaders. The recoil spring is a major player in all of this, but the condition of the rails(tightness, sprung) will contribute to the friction resistance. Another is the ammo load itself, way up there in pressure works great but batters, too low......jams. Kinda like the 3 bears and their bowls of porridge huh?
The leaf springs for the sear and the ejector itself. I just test for tension ability and the ability to move like they should in range. Harder to find than coil springs, I have replaced one sear spring that went out into the blue(snapped) at the range one time.
I remember some discussion about making new coil recoil springs on this forum, you might try a quickie search if so interested
Rick W.