Quote:
Originally Posted by gunbugs
DO NOT use wood. Use aluminum, brass or steel, ONE PIECE rods that are near bore diameter, and do not protrude from the bore more than about 6" from the end you are going to tap on... DO NOT use wood, of any type.
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Doug, I'll buy that! I think the salient point we can all agree on is protection of the bore. So, any material of lesser hardness that will take a whack with a hammer, avoid making a bad situation worse by getting itself stuck or broken, and configured for a slick fit down the pipe should, plus lubricant, do the trick. Fashion a slip-on cap to keep the pounded end from digging up its face and you could use a dead blow hammer. And the cap will keep the end of the rod from being peened...
Quote:
Originally Posted by cirelaw
Does it only happen with reloads or am I safe with the old white box?
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Eric, although it's
theoretically possible to encounter a WWB squibb round, the odds
against one being loaded off-spec enough to cause problems make them safe for all practical/reasonable considerations. I'm thinking that they are probably quite good about quality control, considering that their product produces an explosion in a small appliance that is held basically in front of one's face. With your background, you could probably explain the liabilities and regulations better than I! Do-it-yourself ammo can be exquisitely precise...or the opposite. If a round with not enough powder makes it through the process, whether in the factory or personal workshop, there's your squibb. They sound odd when shot, so if it does, unload and check that bore if there's any doubt. Firing another round into the system with an obstructed barrel = very bad.