If you purchase it, get the 3 day inspection (non-firing) in writing on the paperwork, and the commitment to a complete refund if you return it for any reason.
Explain that you have to disassemble it and check every part to ensure it's matching.
Anyone that occasionally deals in C&R should respect that we have to do what they might consider strange things to ensure it's right.
If they won't agree to that, you can always offer them a shooter price for the gun and explain why (you're taking on the risk that it actually is a shooter).
I would not attempt disassembly myself in front of the dealer until you become expert at it. At home you can take your time and follow the videos without any pressure.
As Don says, very few dealers will know how to field strip or reassemble a Luger. There are a couple of tricks to doing it smoothly.
Be sure to check that the inside number on the side plate (if there is on on the variation) is correct. Alvin's advice to post pictures is a good idea if the photos are taken in shaded natural sunlight, are sharp in focus and without camera shake and show all the important details.
If you're interested in Lugers, the reference books are a good idea, but they are expensive and it takes time with guns in hand to develop judgment.
Remember that the goal in a collectible Luger is to be as close to the original factory state as possible. That's in finish, all matching parts, mechanical operation and overall impression. The farther from that you get, the closer to a shooter category gun you are, and the lower the price.
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 Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum -
- Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.
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