Rick, thanks for your insight. I will use care in regards to the headspacing. I was looking at the guages at Brownells.
Good news, I have all the gears to set up 20tpi. I opened the gear door on the lathe today and the gear data plate was unreadable.
Fortunatly, this fellows website has the "sacred scrolls" preserved:
http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/...tlas_Lathe.htm
I have some thick brass stock to make the action wrench. I will probaly band saw this and file to shape and drill it for two cap head bolts & screws.
I was looking at Martz carbine #1 in "Luger Tips". Seems he took it easy in his first incarnation. He simply "stretched" the original profile of the luger barrel. The orignal rear Navy model sights were used. His forestock is different. There is no visible key through the stock. Also, the "schnaub" on the front is carved differently. It's not really like a 1902 carbine at all.
I believe on the 1902 carbine, the original rear sight is present on the rear of the gun but is not utilized. The front and rear sight on the barrel are set higher.
I think I can manage the rear sleeved sight.
The front sight is problematic. I can't solder to stainless. I want a light weight barrel, hence the barrel wall thickness will only be about 0.1" thick at the muzzle. I don't think this will be enough to mill a dove tail. Perhaps I should start with a thicker blank, and then contour the fat cylinder at the muzzle like the standard luger barrel. I could then dovetail a front ramp sight into this section.
Alternatively, I could make a pressed on sleeve that has the front sight and ramp attached to it.
Decisions....decisions...