First, does the toggle close on an empty case? If not, then the extractor could be the problem.
Otherwise, does the toggle close on a factory round?
If it does, then do the following:
First, determine where the problem is. This is always the first step.
Take a round (always nice to make at least one inert dummy round before you start loading to verify feeding and chambering) and completely cover the bullet and case with Magic Marker
Remove barrel (cannon or whatever the P-08 folks call it once it is off the frame and toggle removed) from gun and drop the coated round in the barrel. Twist the round to-and-from.
Remove round and inspect for scratches in the marking.
Scratches on the bullet: COL is too long
Scratches on the case mouth: need more crimp to remove case mouth flare (and that is ALL crimping is to do)
Scratches just below the case mouth: too much crimp and you are bulging/buckling the case.
Scratches on case near the base of the bullet: you are seating the bullet crooked. You may need more case mouth flare. You may need to expand the case (if you are only case mouth flaring). You may be starting the bullets crooked or the bullet is tipping on its way into the seating die. You may have poor bullet-to-seating stem fit and it is pushing the bullet crooked. Your seating stem may not be aligned correctly and is forcing the bullet crooked.
Scratches above the extractor groove: cases have bulges not being sized out. Get a Bulge Buster and the appropriate Lee FCD and run the cases through the FCD (without, obviously, the crimp parts still installed). This is about the only failure-to-feed I have had with my P-08s. One round must have a bulge that got pushed down and formed a raised ridge about half-way around the case just above the extractor groove (just like in Lee's Bulge Buster ads). I've been since been running all my 9x19 and 9x21 cases through a 9mm MAK Lee FCD and Bulge Buster.
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