Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepherder
The extractor is a sloppy fit. The bottom of the extractor has a round button that fits in a round recess at the bottom of the extractor cut. The button is bigger in diameter than the slot...Or appears to be...The slot is actually wide enough for the extractor to slip out the front, instead of straight up, as it appears it was designed to. 
It does hit the slot in the chamber face when closed. If the slot was deepened, it would either cut into the chamber or into the barrel insert. It might be a solution to trim back the snout of the extractor so it doesn't hit the slope in the insert. |
I was referring more to hitting the sides on the way in. I've noticed the same thing you've noted, and will consider swiping the front of the extractor across the grinding wheel a couple of times so it doesn't jump up like that when the breech block is fully in battery. I'm not sure it influences the flying out deal, though.
The cheap-o zinc Ermas had an arrangement very similar to the P.08, with a vertical spring under the tail, and a pin that holds the danged thing in--although the extractor itself has a very different profile.
The Erma extractor we're discussing is mounted most precariously. What retains it is the tension from the spring and plunger behind, pressing it into the front top edge of the vertical hole into which the extractor's "tail" drops. The swelling below where the plunger's tip rests would, combined with the forward tension from the spring, tend to keep it in place. The guy that produced a round of home made CNC replacements said he deepened the little dimple there. When the extractor rocks up while hopping over the round's rim, it seems to me that this method of retention of the part gets a little dicey. A deeper dimple might actually help.