Tony,
If this is the case, check the condition of the edges of the little grooves in the shaft of the takedown lever, in and out of which the "hump" in the spring slips as the lever is rotated. Are they well-defined, or rounded and worn? With the upper removed, is there there play allowed for the lever when it and the spring are in place? Obvious or easily-obtainable play might point to excessive wear of the hole. You might be able to use the shank of a drill bit from a numbered index to check the fit to see if the hole thru the front of the frame is out of round. If the bit just makes it through, but can still be wiggled in one direction, the hole is oval, likely from the forceful hammering it takes when the upper returns to battery--The lever in the hole is the top assembly's forward "stop".
I hesitate to say it, because some other members may roast me, but adjusting the tang of the side plate to ride a bit off the frame might just do the trick. It is a common remedy for firming up a side plate that "jiggles" as the trigger system is tensioned by pressing the trigger. You have heretofore made no mention of that problem, but perhaps it has not been noticed. But this approach may just give the lever a touch more resistance to rotating when the mainspring pressure on it is temporarily relieved during a cycle. The more official restorative approach would be to have the deficit filled by TIG welding and then re-establish the precise diameter hole. I think compensating for it would be my choice, so as not to disturb the finish--and to spare major outlay of $$$.
I don't need to relate again how this adjustment is accomplished as it has been discussed several times on the forum--once, fairly recently. Just do a search for "loose side plate".
__________________
"... Liberty is the seed and soil, the air and light, the dew and rain of progress, love and joy."-- Robert Greene Ingersoll 1894
|