[Thor]

Sometimes, I remove a bit off the face of the trigger lever that lets the disconnector push past it for the reset, but if you take too much off the gun will not fire at all. Sometimes the leaf sear spring is too strong. Tom Heller (lugerdoc) has schooled me on much of this. Also on early Lugers if you see DRAG marks, on the left side of the receiver, made by the face of the trigger lever, there is a good chance it is over rotating during the firing sequence. I NEVER bend the trigger levers unless I am darn sure they are not hardened, most are and will break before bending. It is mostly about the disconnector spring strength and the trigger lever rotational movement. When the trigger is pulled the shot should break just before the trigger contacts the frame and when the toggle cycles and the trigger is released the lever needs to move far enough to allow the disconnector button, at the end of the sear bar, to pop back in place. When everything is in position correctly and the trigger arm has the right angles in play, and you have a good spring you usually get a reset after firing. One more variable to throw in the mix. the trigger slot can affect it too but not as much. One way to visually watch the reset process, is to remove the toggle train from the reciever, then put the gun back together without the train in place. You can see the disconnector button pop back in place when everything is working properly.