Joe,
I'd say the general mechanics of extraction and ejection are very general in application to most auto pistols, though the pertinent parts, or their equivalents, may be located and arranged a bit differently. Something needs to drag the round out of the chamber, and something needs to flick the shell case out of the action. One example I can give is that the ejector for one version of the .22 conversion kits uses the top right feed lip of the mag. It "shows up" where the original ejector would during the cycle; the latter is removed during installation of the kit for clearance purposes.
I'd say the test of the extractor spring is how it functions. The extractor needs to catch enough so that the round is dragged straight back out out the chamber--until the base of the case encounters the ejector, which will flip the case up. It pivots on the extractor's claw until it escapes this influence--when the angle of rotation of the flipped case is great enough to bring its rim our from behind the edge of the claw. I'm not sure if the case needs to be held so firmly to the breech block that it withstands earthquakes. But it wold have to stay put during its trip straight back until ejected. My concern was the possibility of a buildup of goop under the extractor sufficient to impede either its range of motion or the smoothness thereof. The solvent/compressed air approach would address most goop issues sufficiently, so you' need to remove the pin and scrub out everything thus exposed, only if you suspect rust, corrosion, or crud that will not blow out. Incomplete or impeded motion of the extractor after the easy method would signal the need for the more thorough approach.
I noticed that you got good results from attention to the chamber! A good, smooth fit here certainly won't hurt, and may actually help.
Deformed or splayed feed lips aren't necessarily visible to the eye. Using a set of parallel jaw machinists' calipers would determine if the mag sides are straight from front to back. You wouldn't necessarily see this holding it up and looking. I guess if the follower spontaneously popped out of the top, between the lips, that mag would be seriously bent!
To remove the follower, it is necessary to remove the mag bottom. This is tricky to do without deforming the mag body in the area of the pin that holds the bottom in. Back up the body with hard wood or plastic underneath, You'll need relief holes, properly sized and located, for the knob on the mag bottom and for the pin, itself. The more accurate the holes, the better the results. The pin would then be tapped out using a punch of just slightly smaller dia. than the pin. I use a small plastic needle-nosed clamp to reach in thru the follower button's slot in the side, and compress the follower spring so that the mag's guts are loose, not under spring pressure. This will save hunting all over the work area with a flashlight and magnet to retrieve flown-away parts! But save this operation until it is made necessary by the need to change a part inside, or remove crud or corrosion not addressable from the outside. The tapped-in fit of the pin in the mag bottom will allow its removal and re-insertion several times, but at risk would be the need to install a new, larger pin if the hole is overworked and becomes over-sized. Finally, for re-insertion, check that the pin is smooth--no burrs on either end, which could scrape material from the inside of the hole.
DP
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