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ithacaartist · 04-09-2012, 12:19 PM

Hi Joe,

Welcome to the forum. Though sort of peripheral, discussion of Stoeger and Erma Lugers is just fine in the off topic/other firearms section, and I guess here in new collectors, unless this gets moved by a moderator.

The Stoeger Lugers fall into the same category as Ermas because, strictly speaking, they are mechanically somewhat different when compared to the P-08, or original Lugers.
This said, the beef most people have with them is due to issues of reliability in feeding, firing, and ejecting. Some of the Luger wannabes are constructed with diecast parts, which are notoriously weak and tend to wear out prematurely. Stoegers used both steel and alloy frames, depending on the vintage, and I believe their upper assemblies are steel. Both Erma and Stoeger generally have no problem with accuracy.

To repeat what I've posted a couple of times earlier, they are fun to shoot when they are working well, but the ones that revert to cranky function can be a real challenge. I have some Ermas, but I think I can extrapolate and give you some pointers to consider when you are trying out your Stoeger .22.

Clean your pistol thoroughly, then lubricate it liberally. Be sure to remove any buildup from the chamber, and be sure to soak and blow out the area under the extractor and the well in the front of the breech block--where the rim of the shell will fit. The wannabes are like real Lugers in these respects. Another similarity is that a fresh set of action and firing pin springs, and possibly the extractor spring, may bring it back to functionality. (Some are available at http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...gs&catid=10430 Searching for more is another challenge.)

First, check the mag to see if it is straight and true and the spring action smooth and robust. Through use, the feed lips will tend to spread. In the extreme of this situation, you'll have problems even inserting the mag, and at the very least, the splayed lips will feed improperly for a number of reasons. If yours is bent like this, lay it on a smooth piece of wood and tap it with a leather or wooden mallet where it is swollen or puffed up. Angles of the lips can be adjusted with duck bill pliers or similar, taking care not to bung up the finish. Use a needle file to remove burrs and sharp edges. Load a few rounds and strip them off the mag with your thumbnail to get an idea how things are flowing; you'll be able to detect catchy spots, general drag in the motion of the shell, and weird angles of presentation to the breech by checking this way. Trial and error may be the words of the day.

The Ermas are definitely ammo sensitive, as well, and I'd bet the Stoegers are, too. Start with sub sonic or standard velocity loads, as this is what was available when the gun was designed and manufactured. Work your way up in muzzle velocity and bullet weight to find out what your pistol works best with. Try round nose, hollow point, copper plated, different brands of ammo--jeez, there's a million variables--and soon you will establish your pistol's preferred diet. The idea here is to discover just what load will function the action fully without overpowering, which would beat the action parts to premature death. The magnitude and duration of ignition pulse, or force, plus the weight/velocity of the slug are what affects the "oomph" to which the action is subjected.

Running these pistols "wet" will often improve their reliability. Try a mag or two without, but if you get problems in feeding, try squirting silicone lube into the mag through the follower's slot. Pull down on the follower and rattle the rounds a bit to distribute the lube, then shake and wipe off the excess before inserting into pistol.

Perhaps yours will perform just fine, as some actually do, but these tips may help you get it working a little better in the event it does not. I think I frightened another prospective Erma owner the other day into not making the purchase, but if you already have the gun, I think it's worth a bit of tinkering, which I've found to be fairly rewarding when working with these cranky little .22s. If yours turns out to be problematic, it can still be fun to play with and perhaps find the golden combination of factors to cure its ills.

hope this helps...

DEP

p.s. Hey, I was a Texas Yankee in Austin in 1976, working at Louis Shanks' furniture store!

04-09-2012, 12:19 PM	#5
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,374 Thanks: 7,447 Thanked 2,613 Times in 1,380 Posts	Hi Joe, Welcome to the forum. Though sort of peripheral, discussion of Stoeger and Erma Lugers is just fine in the off topic/other firearms section, and I guess here in new collectors, unless this gets moved by a moderator. The Stoeger Lugers fall into the same category as Ermas because, strictly speaking, they are mechanically somewhat different when compared to the P-08, or original Lugers. This said, the beef most people have with them is due to issues of reliability in feeding, firing, and ejecting. Some of the Luger wannabes are constructed with diecast parts, which are notoriously weak and tend to wear out prematurely. Stoegers used both steel and alloy frames, depending on the vintage, and I believe their upper assemblies are steel. Both Erma and Stoeger generally have no problem with accuracy. To repeat what I've posted a couple of times earlier, they are fun to shoot when they are working well, but the ones that revert to cranky function can be a real challenge. I have some Ermas, but I think I can extrapolate and give you some pointers to consider when you are trying out your Stoeger .22. Clean your pistol thoroughly, then lubricate it liberally. Be sure to remove any buildup from the chamber, and be sure to soak and blow out the area under the extractor and the well in the front of the breech block--where the rim of the shell will fit. The wannabes are like real Lugers in these respects. Another similarity is that a fresh set of action and firing pin springs, and possibly the extractor spring, may bring it back to functionality. (Some are available at http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...gs&catid=10430 Searching for more is another challenge.) First, check the mag to see if it is straight and true and the spring action smooth and robust. Through use, the feed lips will tend to spread. In the extreme of this situation, you'll have problems even inserting the mag, and at the very least, the splayed lips will feed improperly for a number of reasons. If yours is bent like this, lay it on a smooth piece of wood and tap it with a leather or wooden mallet where it is swollen or puffed up. Angles of the lips can be adjusted with duck bill pliers or similar, taking care not to bung up the finish. Use a needle file to remove burrs and sharp edges. Load a few rounds and strip them off the mag with your thumbnail to get an idea how things are flowing; you'll be able to detect catchy spots, general drag in the motion of the shell, and weird angles of presentation to the breech by checking this way. Trial and error may be the words of the day. The Ermas are definitely ammo sensitive, as well, and I'd bet the Stoegers are, too. Start with sub sonic or standard velocity loads, as this is what was available when the gun was designed and manufactured. Work your way up in muzzle velocity and bullet weight to find out what your pistol works best with. Try round nose, hollow point, copper plated, different brands of ammo--jeez, there's a million variables--and soon you will establish your pistol's preferred diet. The idea here is to discover just what load will function the action fully without overpowering, which would beat the action parts to premature death. The magnitude and duration of ignition pulse, or force, plus the weight/velocity of the slug are what affects the "oomph" to which the action is subjected. Running these pistols "wet" will often improve their reliability. Try a mag or two without, but if you get problems in feeding, try squirting silicone lube into the mag through the follower's slot. Pull down on the follower and rattle the rounds a bit to distribute the lube, then shake and wipe off the excess before inserting into pistol. Perhaps yours will perform just fine, as some actually do, but these tips may help you get it working a little better in the event it does not. I think I frightened another prospective Erma owner the other day into not making the purchase, but if you already have the gun, I think it's worth a bit of tinkering, which I've found to be fairly rewarding when working with these cranky little .22s. If yours turns out to be problematic, it can still be fun to play with and perhaps find the golden combination of factors to cure its ills. hope this helps... DEP p.s. Hey, I was a Texas Yankee in Austin in 1976, working at Louis Shanks' furniture store!