Not necessarily. The "L" shaped transfer bar inside the sideplate may not be extending far enough to really gain a purchase on the sear bar. Since bending this lever is very tricky, (it is hardened and will snap if you try to bend it). A method you might try is to apply a tiny strip of electrical tape on the tip of the lever which engages the sear bar, (do this once the pistol is cocked, remove the sideplate while holding upper in place, apply tape, then replace sideplate directly over the cocked sear bar. You want to do this because the tape will interfere with the lever's travel over the sear bar if you try to **** the pistol with the tape in place). If the pistol then dry fires with less effort, (you should be doing this with a snap cap in place), then the original lever has not been engaging the sear properly.
Some members have laughed, but I have solved this problem by building up the upper pad of the L transfer bar by applying JB Weld. I then file it down until I achieve the proper sear engagement, keeping in mind to radius a "ramp" on the pad edge farthest from the muzzle, so that the sear bar plunger can properly ride over the L link.
This is obviously more easely explained visually, but I hope you get this.
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