Quote:
Originally Posted by Olle
There seems to be some confusion regarding the grit sometimes, and I'm not really sure that all grits are the same (paper, compound, abrasive pads etc). Are you talking about P400 paper or polishing compound?
I use paper and elbow grease for most of the polish (I don't trust myself with power tools around guns), but a fresh P400 paper gives me a brushed finish. It still seems to be a good base for the bluing, after a few cardings you can't see it anymore. I have even tried a light blasting with aluminum oxide, and it did require a heavier carding but came out almost as smooth as a 400-600 grit polish.
It would also be interesting if someone could elaborate a bit on how to get different colors. The only variation I have seen has been because of the steel quality, but some say that you can get different results by using different chemicals.
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Since you have obviously done some experimenting, you have started discovering the "secrets" to a good finish.
When I said a 320 to 400 polish, I was talking about a sandpaper finish.
A true 400 polish with paper should look very shiny. If you you look closely though, you can see the very fine lines left by the paper.
These can be blended somewhat using a carding wheel.
You are right about using a fresh sheet. It will change the way light is reflected. For a glossier finish, use the 400 till the steel is bright. Something else to try, after it's polished out, turn the paper over and polish with the back side.
Bluing steel,or as it once was called, blacking, is a process of rusting. All you are doing is converting red oxide into black oxide.
That is true in rust bluing and hot bluing. It just happens a lot faster in the hot process.
There is no such animal named blue oxide.
In these processes, our only real variable is the way light gets reflected off of the surfaces (polishing) and the alloys in the steel.
There is a true blueing process. It's called carbona or carbonia, depending on who you ask. This is a heat process akin to color case hardening.
Another method is nitre bluing. Again, it's a heat process. The straw colorings you see on Lugers are a variation of this process.
If the surface of your steel is polished out correctly, the final coloring is dependent on the number of "trips" through the rust, boil, card process and the makeup of the steel.
Also, you can not hide any blemishes when rust bluing. Except for color, the appearance of the steel before bluing is exactly the way it's going to appear when blued.
I really wish I could give you a formula or process that works exactly the same way everytime, but it doesn't exist.
The best thing about working on your own guns is there is no rush. If you don't like the result, you can start over and try sanding a different direction or polishing it out more, or less.
Most any good refinish job will have some blue color when oiled. It's simply the way light gets reflected.
Take your time, be patient, ang good luck with your project.
If you would like to see an example of rust blue combined with nitre blue accents, I will post a photo of my 1911.
Tim